Coast

• What is the coastal system?


  The coastal system is where the land meets the sea.
• What does the littoral zone refer to?


  The littoral zone refers to the coastal area affected by waves.
• What are the main components of the littoral zone?


  1. Coast: land affected by waves, may include settlements and farmland.
  2. Backshore: area above high tide, affected only during extreme weather.
  3. Foreshore: zone between high and low tide marks, where wave processes occur.
  4. Nearshore: area just off the coastline beyond low tide, consists of shallow seawater.
  5. Offshore: area where waves start to break and water is deeper.
• What does dynamic equilibrium in the littoral zone mean?


  It means different parts of the coastal zone are constantly undergoing short-term changes.
• What are long-term changes in coastlines classified by?


  Long-term changes create coastlines that are emerging or submerging, rocky or estuarine, and concordant or discordant.
• What are the classifications of coastlines based on long-term changes?

  • Emerging or submerging: based on sea level changes.
  • Rocky or estuarine: based on geological resistance.
  • Concordant or discordant: based on geological strata and wave action.
• What are short-term changes in coastlines classified by?


  Short-term changes create coastlines classified by tidal range, retreating or advancing, high or low energy, and primary or secondary coasts.
• What are the classifications of coastlines based on short-term changes?

  • Classified by tidal range.
  • Retreating (losing land) or advancing (gaining land).
  • High or low energy based on erosion and deposition.
  • Primary coasts (land-based processes) or secondary coasts (marine-based processes).
• What is tidal range?


  Tidal range is the difference in height between high and low tide.
• How can coasts be classified according to their tidal range?


  • Microtidal: less than 2 m
  • Mesotidal: 2–4 m
  • Macrotidal: over 4 m
• What energy transfers occur in the coastal system?


  Air transfers energy as wind, while water transfers energy as waves, tides, and currents.
• What are the characteristics of high-energy coasts?


  • Receive large, powerful destructive waves.
  • Created by strong winds and long fetches.
  • Higher rates of erosion than deposition.
  • Tend to be rocky with cliffs, stacks, and arches.
  • Clear distinction between land and sea.
• What are the characteristics of low-energy coasts?


  • Receive small, gentle constructive waves.
  • Created by gentle winds and sheltered locations.
  • Higher rates of deposition than erosion.
  • Characterized by sandy beaches, salt marshes, and estuaries.
  • May have cliffs set back from the beach.
• What is the impact of gentle winds on low-energy coasts?


  Gentle winds create conditions for small, constructive waves that promote deposition.
• How do high-energy coasts differ from low-energy coasts in terms of erosion and deposition?


  High-energy coasts have higher rates of erosion than deposition, while low-energy coasts have higher rates of deposition than erosion.
• What is sediment accretion in coastal systems?

  Sediment accretion is the expansion of land into the sea due to high levels of deposition.
• What are the features of high-energy coast cliffs?


  • High erosion levels, steep with little vegetation.
  • Marine cliff profile: undercutting and debris washing away.
  • Subaerial cliff profile: less steep with weathered material at the base.
• What are the features of low-energy coast landscapes?


  • Sandy beaches, salt marshes, estuaries, and tidal mud flats.
  • Gentle relief and low elevation.
  • Cliffs may be set back from the beach.
• What defines the shape of the beach?


  Different wave types
• How are waves created?


  By wind blowing over the surface of the sea
• What effect does wind have on water when creating waves?


  It creates a circular motion in the water as energy is transferred
• What factors influence wave height?

  Wind speed, fetch, and seabed depth
• What happens to waves as they approach the shore?


  They break due to friction with the seabed
• What are the two types of waves mentioned?

  Destructive waves and constructive waves
• What are the characteristics of destructive waves?


  They are high, steep, and have a circular cross profile
• How often do destructive waves occur?


  10 to 14 waves a minute
• What is the effect of destructive waves on the beach?


  The strong backwash scours and removes material from the beach
• What can cause short-term changes in wave activity?

  A single storm event
• What is fetch in relation to waves?


  The maximum distance the wind has blown over open water
• What is swash?


  Water washing up the beach
• What is backwash?


  Water washing back towards the sea
• What are the characteristics of constructive waves?


  They have a low frequency and low energy
• How often do constructive waves occur?


  Around 6 to 8 waves a minute
• What is the effect of constructive waves on the beach?


  The powerful wash carries material up the beach and deposits it at a higher point
• What seasonal changes can affect wave characteristics?


  • Winter beaches tend to be steeper due to destructive waves removing sediment.
  • Summer beaches tend to be taller where constructive waves create a large berm.
• How does climate change affect wave conditions?


  It is likely to create more 'storm-like' conditions, increasing destructive waves
• What are sediment cells?


  • They divide the coast into separate sections.
  • Act as self-contained units in sediment movement.
  • Often lie between two significant headlands.
• How many sediment cells are there around the English and Welsh coastline?


  11 sediment cells
• What happens to sediment movement between sediment cells?


  It doesn't move between cells except in extreme weather events
• What are the components of a sediment cell?


  • Inputs: sources of sediment
  • Flows: transfers of sediment
  • Stores: sinks of sediment