Waves are created by wind which creates friction and changes in pressure. This causes ripples which develop into waves and winddrags the wave as it moves over the surface of the water
What motion does the water move in
Water rolls in a circular orbit
What three factors influence the size and energy of waves
-the strength of the wind
-how long the wind has been blowing for
-distance of ocean the wind blows and the waves build up(fetch)
Why is the southwest of England a good place to surf
The fetch has thousands of miles to travel so the waves build up
What happens as waves move from deeper to shallow waters
-they slow down
-get steeper
-get closer together
What are the two things that a broken wave produces
a swash and a backwash
What is swash
water that flows towards the coast (deposits material)
What is backwash
water flows back towards the sea (removes material)
What happens when swash is more powerful then backwash
more material is deposited on the shore than is taken away
What waves are produced when swash is more powerful the backwash
constructive waves
-forms a more gently, wide sloping beach profile
What happens when the backwash is more powerful than the swash
more material is removed from the beach then is added
What waves are produced when the backwash is more powerful than the swash
Destructive waves
-forms a steeper, narrow beach profile
-erodes the beach
Which direction does the swash arrive at the beach
at a diagonal
45 degrees
Which direction does the backwash leave the beach
flows straight back due to gravity
90 degrees
What process causes sediment to be transported along the beach
Longshore drift
What does weathering mean
The breakdown of rocks by physical or chemical changes in situ (one place).
What are the three different types of weathering
mechanical,
Break-up of rocks without changing their chemical composition, external factors
chemical
caused by chemical changes
biological
due to the actions of flora and fauna (animals and plants)
Types of mechanical weathering
freeze thaw
salt weathering
what is freeze thawing
-during the day water will collect in cracks in a rock from rain or ocean
-at night the temperature will drop and the water will freeze to form ice. Ice expands which means the crack is enlarged
-overtime this process will be repeated and eventually the crack becomes large enough to break of and collect as scree at the foot of the rock face
What is salt weathering
-seawater contains salt-when the water evaporates it leaves behind salt crystals
-in cracks and holes these salt crystals grow and expand
-puts pressure on the rocks, they then disintegrate and flakes break off