Waves

• wave energy depends on the fetch, the strength of the wind and the length of time over which the wind has blown
• the stronger the wind is the more energy the waves have
• the longer the wind blows for, the more energy the waves have
• the longer the fetch, the more energy the waves have
• water swashes up the beach
• the sea bed is rough and acts as a source of friction for the waves
• a waves crest is the top of the wave
• the wave frequency is the rate at which the waves break on the shore
• the trough is the lowest part of the wave
• the fetch is the distance the wind blows over the water
• the swash is the water that rushes up the beach
• the backwash is the water that flows back into the sea
• constructive waves are long, and normally less than 2m tall
• constructive waves have a strong swash, and a weaker backwash
• destructive waves are short, and are higher than 2m
• destructive waves have a weaker swash, and a strong backwash