Waves

Cards (3)

  • Constructive waves
    - Found on sandy beaches
    - Beaches are wide and flat
    - Strong swash
    - Weak backwash
    - Many depositional landforms eg. Berms
  • Destructive waves
    - Rocky beaches
    - Steep and narrow beaches
    - Strong backwash
    - Weak swash
    - Erosional landforms eg. Headlands or stumps.
  • Why a wave breaks

    1. Wave enters shallow water as it approaches the shore.
    2. Bottom of the wave contacts the seafloor.
    3. As a result of this friction with the seafloor, the base of the wave slows down
    4. The wavelength of the wave decreases as it slows down.
    5. The wave is also squeezed up by the shallower seafloor.
    6. Wave steepness increases
    7. Water now surged up the beach. This process dominates for constructive waves
    8. This happens at the plunge line
    9. The upper part of the wave now spills over
    10. Water will then return seaward(backwash). When this process dominates, it is probably a destructive wave.