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Geography
Coastal Landscapes and Change
Coasts
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Created by
Harriet Bowen
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Cards (141)
How can the coast be classified in terms of systems?
As an
open system
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What types of systems can coasts transfer outputs to?
Terrestrial
,
atmospheric
, or oceanic systems
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In what context should the coast be considered a closed system?
During scientific research and
coastline
management
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What are sediment cells?
Sections
of
coast
considered closed systems
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How many sediment cells are there in England and Wales?
Eleven
sediment cells
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What are the components of sediment cells?
Sources: Where sediment originates (e.g.,
cliffs
)
Through flows: Movement of sediment via
longshore drift
Sinks: Locations where sediment is deposited (e.g.,
beaches
)
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What does dynamic equilibrium in a sediment cell mean?
Input and output of sediment are
balanced
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What is a negative feedback loop in the coastal system?
It lessens changes, restoring equilibrium
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What is a positive feedback loop in the coastal system?
It exaggerates changes, making the system unstable
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How can physical and human actions affect sediment cells?
They can change the
dynamic equilibrium
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How does a storm create a negative feedback loop?
Storm waves erode the
beach
, then deposit sediment
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What happens to a beach after a storm in terms of sediment?
Excess sediment is deposited as an
offshore bar
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What is the littoral zone?
The area of the
coast
affected by wave action
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What factors affect the littoral zone?
Short-term: Tides and
storm surges
Long-term:
Sea level changes
and climate change
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What are the subzones within the littoral zone?
Backshore
: Above
high tide
level
Foreshore
: Where most wave processes occur
Offshore
: The open sea
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What does Valentine's Classification describe?
The range of
coastlines
that can occur
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What causes an advancing coastline?
Land emerging or
deposition
being prominent
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What is erosion in the coastal context?
The removal of sediment from a
coastline
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What causes a retreating coastline?
Land
submerging
or
erosion
being prominent
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What are the main processes of coastal erosion?
Corrasion
Abrasion
Attrition
Hydraulic Action
Corrosion (Solution)
Wave Quarrying
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What is corrasion?
Sand and pebbles erode
cliffs
at high tide
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What is abrasion?
Movement of
sediment
wears down the
shoreline
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What is attrition?
Rocks
and pebbles wear down by colliding
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What is hydraulic action?
Waves force air into rock cracks, causing
erosion
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What is wave quarrying?
Breaking waves
exert pressure to
erode
cliffs
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What is corrosion in coastal erosion?
Acidic
seawater erodes
alkaline
rocks like
limestone
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What conditions lead to the highest erosion rates?
High
waves
,
perpendicular
approach, and high tide
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How does rock resistance affect vulnerability to erosion?
Clastic rocks
are more vulnerable than
crystalline rocks
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What factors influence a rock's vulnerability to erosion?
Type of rock:
clastic
vs.
crystalline
Amount of cracks and fractures
Lithology of the rock
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What are the types of rocks and their erosion rates?
Igneous
: Very slow (<0.1
cm/year
)
Metamorphic
: Slow (0.1-0.3
cm/year
)
Sedimentary
: Very fast (0.5-10 cm/year)
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What erosional landforms are created by coastal processes?
Caves, Arches, Stacks, Stumps
Wave-cut
notch and platform
Retreating Cliffs
Blowholes
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How do caves, arches, stacks, and stumps form?
Through
marine erosion
on
pinnacle headlands
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What creates a wave-cut notch and platform?
Marine erosion
at the base of a cliff
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What is longshore drift (LSD)?
Sediment transported along the
coast
Waves hit the beach at an angle
Sediment moves up in
swash
and down in
backwash
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What is a blowhole?
A channel for waves to travel into a
cliff
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What causes retreating cliffs?
Repeat
wave-cut
notches
and platforms
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What determines the angle of wave approach in longshore drift?
The direction of the
prevailing wind
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What are the processes of sediment transportation?
Traction
: Large sediment rolls along seabed
Saltation
: Smaller sediment bounces along seabed
Suspension
: Small sediment carried in
water
Solution: Dissolved material carried in water
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What is the impact of wave angle on sediment transportation?
Swash-aligned
limits drift;
drift-aligned
enhances it
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When does deposition occur?
When a wave loses
energy
and
sediment
is heavy
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