Wave formation: Coastal processes

• What happens in deep water

  In deeper water, the waves have a circular motion as they aren't affected by friction from the seabed
• What happens when waves approach shore

  As waves approach, the shore the friction increases as the sea depth is decreasing
• What is the result

  Therefore, the bottom of the wave is slower and the top of the wave is faster, so the wave has more of an elliptical motion and the wave breaks