Types of waves: Coastal processes

• Wave height


  C: flat, low waves , wave height less than 1M

  D: greater wave height over 1M
• Wave length


  C: large- up to 100m

  D: small- as low as 20m between wave crests
• Wave period


  C: long- typically 7.5 to 10 secs

  D: short 4 to 6 secs
• Frequency per min


  C: 6 to 8 per min

  D: 10 to 14 per min
• High or low energy

  C: low energy

  D: high energy
• Beach gradient


  C: gradient increases as material is pushed onto beach

  D: gradient decreases as material is carried off beach
• Stronger swash


  C: strong swash

  D: strong backwash