test

• What primarily causes most waves to form?

  The wind blowing across the sea
• How do waves increase in height as they approach the beach?

  Ripples created by wind pull the surface
• What are the two types of waves mentioned?

  • Constructive waves
  • Destructive waves
• What are the characteristics of constructive waves?

  • Strong swash, weak backwash
  • Low wave height, large wavelength
  • Low frequency
  • Depositional process

  
• What are the characteristics of destructive waves?

  • Strong backwash, weak swash
  • High wave height, small wavelength
  • High frequency
  • Erosional process

  
• What happens to material during the action of constructive waves?

  They deposit material on the beach

  
• What happens to material during the action of destructive waves?

  They erode the beach and take material away

  
• What factors affect the size of a wave?

  The strength of the wind, duration, depth, fetch
• What type of landforms do coastlines with constructive waves typically have?

  Depositional landforms like sandy beaches

  
• What type of landforms do coastlines with destructive waves typically have?

  Erosional landforms like rocky headlands

  
• What are the five coastal processes to know for the exam?

  1. Erosion
  2. Weathering
  3. Transportation
  4. Mass movement
  5. Deposition

  
• What is erosion in the coastal context?

  Removal and destruction of rocks and sand
• What are the five types of erosion processes?

  1. Corrasion
  2. Abrasion
  3. Attrition
  4. Hydraulic Action
  5. Corrosion (Solution)

  
• How does corrasion contribute to erosion?

  Sand and pebbles are hurled against cliffs
• What is abrasion in coastal erosion?

  Scraping of sediment against rock faces
• What occurs during attrition?

  Rocks and pebbles hit each other, becoming smaller
• What is hydraulic action?

  Air forced into rock cracks causes fracturing
• How does corrosion (solution) affect coastal rocks?

  Mildly acidic seawater erodes alkaline rocks
• What landforms result from marine erosion on headlands?

  • Caves
  • Arches
  • Stacks
  • Stumps
• How does a cave form on a headland?

  Marine erosion widens cracks at the base
• What happens to an arch over time?

  It widens until it collapses into a stack
• What is a stack in coastal geography?

  A detached section of an arch after collapse
• What is a stump in coastal geography?

  A remnant of a stack after erosion
• What type of rock is Old Harry Rocks made of?

  Chalk, a hard rock
• What type of rock is the Green Bridge of Wales made from?

  Sedimentary rock formed from layers
• What is a wave-cut notch?

  An eroded area between high and low tide
• What happens to a cliff after a wave-cut notch forms?

  The cliff becomes unstable and collapses
• What is longshore drift?

  Transport of sediment along the coast
• What are the steps of longshore drift?

  1. Waves hit the beach at an angle
  2. Sediment is pushed up the beach in swash
  3. Gravity pulls sediment back down in backwash
  4. Sediment moves along the beach over time
• What occurs during deposition?

  Waves lose energy and drop sediment
• What are the characteristics of beaches?

  • Large deposits of sand and shingle
  • Formed by constructive waves
  • Typically have berms

  
• What is a spit?

  • A long narrow strip of land
  • Formed by deposition
  • Created when waves lose energy
• How does a bar form?

  A spit grows across the mouth of a bay
• What are sand dunes?

  • Formed by prevailing winds blowing sediment
  • Different types based on development stage
  • Stabilized by vegetation over time
• What are embryo dunes?

  Small dunes forming around obstacles
• What are yellow dunes?

  Dunes with vegetation on upper surfaces
• What is created when a spit grows straight out to an island?

  Barrier beach
• How do sand dunes form?

  Through prevailing winds blowing sediment
• What characterizes embryo dunes?

  Small obstacles cause sand accumulation
• What happens to yellow dunes as they develop?

  Vegetation stabilizes the dune