wave formation

Cards (2)

  • the sun has direct influence on wave formation
  • how are waves formed?
    • wind moves across water surface - frictional drag
    • circular orbital motion of water particles in ocean
    • seabed becomes shallower towards coast
    • orbit of water becomes elliptical - horizontal movement of waves
    • wave heigh increases
    • wavelength and velocity decrease
    • water backs up behind wave
    • wave breaks and surges up beach