Dragonfly Brooch, Rene Lalique Analysis

• (Materials/Techniques) The dragonfly wings use enamel and moonstones to create realistic natural colour, pattern and detail.
• (Materials/Techniques) Lalique has used intricate filigree wire to create pattern, texture and convey the delicate structure and detail of the wings.
• (Materials/Techniques) Lalique has used a hinged technique on the body and wings which allows the design to move when worn.
• (Materials/Techniques) In this design Lalique used diamonds to create the iridescent character of insect wings.
• (Aesthetics/Style) This design is symmetrical as you can see the wings and claws have been mirrored exactly on each side and creates visual balance.
• (Aesthetics/Style) Lalique has used blue, turquoise and gold to create focal points and reflect the elegance of Art Nouveau; for example, the designer has used turquoise on the female form in order to draw your attention to her.
• (Aesthetics/Style) The sharpness of the claws combined with the soft curves of the dragonfly wings creates a visual contrast of emotion.
• (Aesthetics/Style) The sweeping shape of the wings leads your eye up to the vertical line of the body and the centre of this design- this acts as the line of symmetry.
• (S/C) What does JAGEM stand for?

  Japanese art

  Art Nouveau

  Greek mythology

  Enamelling

  Mass production
• (S/C) The dragonfly was an important part off Japanese art and Lalique has used this as the main image for his design
• (S/C) The flowing lines of Art Nouveau can be seen in the shape and intricate patterns of the dragonfly's wings.
• (S/C) Many of Lalique's designs included themes straight out of Greek mythology which can be seen in this brooch by it's use of a hybrid creature which combines a dragonfly with the female form.
• (S/C) For this design Lalique has used the Byzantine 6th century technique of Plique a Jour enamelling to produce the intricate patterns and colour for the wings of the dragonfly.
• (S/C) Lalique has used the ancient technqiue of lost wax casting to mass produce the gold hinges for the structure of the body and also the claws of this design. The hinges allowed the body of the dragonfly to move with the body.
• (FUNC) This brooch is large which would make it awkward to wear
• (FUNC) The protruding wings could be damaged easily as they are large and delicate
• (FUNC) The shape, form and size suggests that the designer's main consideration is to produce an aesthetic piece rather than a functional design
• (TM) This design would appeal to women who wanted to keep up with fashion by wearing the new style of Art Nouveau
• (TM) This brooch was designed for Sarah Bernhardt, a famous French actress. It was designed as a statement piece which is reflected in the size and use of precious stones
• (TM) Later this design would appeal to collectors who preferred an aesthetic design to display, rather than a functional piece to wear