waves

• formation:

  1. the waves nears the coastline
  2. the base of the wave is in contact with the sea bed and friction slows it down
  3. the crest of the wave breaks because it is moving faster then the base
  4. the energy of the breaking wave pushes it up the beach as swash
  5. when all the energy is used up it runs back down the beach as backwash
• destructive waves

  • strong backwash
  • weak swash
  • steep gradient
  • short wavelength
  • high frequency
  • erosional
  • high energy
• constructive waves

  • strong swash
  • weak backwash
  • long wavelength
  • shallow gradient
  • low frequency
  • low energy
  • depositional