Cosmetics Module 5

• Additives


  Are used to provide fragrance, color, thicken, opacify, and convey specific tactile attributes in shampoo
• Surfactants


  Are long chain electrolytes and are usually classified according to the nature of their hydrophilic group, which may be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, or cationic
• Soaps, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl-olefin sulfonates

  Types of Anionic surfactants
• Soaps


  Are salts of fatty acids, not in the distant past, were the mainstay of shampoo products

  - Most effective in soft water
• Hardwater


  Water containing calcium or magnesium salts
• Alkyl sulfates

  Most widely used anionic shampoos

  - Excellent foaming and cleansing properties unaffected by hard water

  - Have tendency to irritate scalp at high concentrations
• Lauryl sulfate


  Is the dominant ingredient being present in most shampoo formulations in the form of its ammonium or tri ethanol ammonium salt
• Alkyl ether sulfates or amphoteric surfactants

  Mixed with alkyl sulfates to make the formulation milder to the scalp
• Alkyl ether sulfates


  Are sulfated products of ethoxylated fatty alcohols

  - More water soluble than alkyl sulfates, execellent solubilizers for fragrances and other oleophilic additives
• Alpha-olefin sulfonates


  Are complex mixtures resulting from sulfonation of alpha olefins

  Exhibit excellent foaming in the presence of sebum and are effective over a wide range of ph

  - Compare favorably than other surfactants in dermal and eye irritation
• Alkyl ether sulfates

  - Suitable for clear shampoos

  - Less irritating than alkyl sulfates

  - can be present in baby shampoos at high degree of ethoxylation
• Alkyl monoglyceride sulfates and alkyl sulfosuccinates


  Both are very mild to the skin

  - Good foamers and can be used in shampoo

  - Primarily used in combination with alkyl sulfates
• Nonionic surfactants


  They are the mildest surfactants

  - Poor foamers, oweing to their good solubilizing and dispersing properties

  - Extensively utilized to supplement the action of the primary cleanser
• Alkanolamides and polyethoxylated surfactants


  Two Chemicals under nonionic surfactants
• Alkalonamides

  Are prepare by condensation of fatty acid (usually lauric) and primary or secondary alkanolamines

  - Stabilizing foam level and improve lather consistency
• Amino oxides


  Are formed by oxidation of tertiary fatty amines and are used in shampoos primarily asfoam modifiers and as antistatic agentsto improve the overall manageability of hair
• Polyethoxylated surfactants


  Represents the largest group of nonionics and include Ethoxylated derivatives of alkylphenols, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and diglycerides

  - Excellent detersive power and cleansing properties

  - Poor foaming; restricted to solubilizing of shampoo fragrances and other oleophilic additives
• Amphoteric surfactants


  Often referred to as ampholytic, these surfactants contain both cationic

  and anionic groups in one molecule.

  Their properties vary with the change in pH

  - Extensively used to formulate mild or baby shampoos or as mollifying agents in more irritating anionic composition
• Imidazoline or betaine


  Most amphoterics are derivatives of these chemicals
• Thickeners


  Used to increase viscosity of the formulations, modifying their consistency from viscous liquids to thick gels
• Magnesium aluminum silicates


  have found application as thickeners and suspending agents in antidundruff shampoos
• Opacifier


  Imparts a pearlescent or opaque appearance of shampoos.

  High melting waxlike materials
• Preservatives


  Inhibits the microbial growth within the formulation
• Pseudomonas


  Most particular strain of bacteria that thrives in shampoo formulation lacking preservatives
• Fragrance


  An essential ingredient, often deciding the market appeal and success of the product
• Alcohols or glycols


  Used to maintain the clarity of clear shampoos
• Sequestering agents


  Prevents the formation of insoluble calcium or magnesium soaps when the shampoo is rinsed off the hair

  -Ex. EDTA
• Dyes


  Enhances the aesthetic of shampoo formulations
• Conditioners


  Used to overcome thesqueakyclean feel of shampooed hair- Accompanied by difficult combing and substantial "fly away"
• Primary cleanser

  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)Ammonium lauryl sulfate
• Foam stabilizer

  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)Lauramide DEA
• Preservative

  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)Methyl paraben
• Preservative

  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)Propyl paraben
• Thickener


  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)Sodium chloride
• Seuqesterant

  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)Disodium EDTA
• Fragrance


  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)Fragrance
• Colorant


  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)FD and C yellow #5
• Colorant


  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)D and C orange no.4
• Diluent


  Function of Ingredient (Shampoo)water
• Baby shampoos

  Place stringent requirements for non-irritancy of the scalp and eye

  - Based on amphoteric detergent systems

  - Sting free formulations