Intro

• Cosmetic Science


  A multidisciplinary field that includes basic knowledge and a wide range of information from different scientific fields, involved with developing, formulating, and producing cosmetics and personal care products
• Cosmetic science is considered a real science
• Scientific areas contributing to cosmetic science

  • Anatomy and physiology
  • Chemistry
  • Pharmacology
  • Formulation technology
  • Current rules and regulations
  • Analytical sciences
  • Microbiology
  • Customer needs
  • Marketing and business
• Cosmetics (US definition)


  Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting structure or function
• Drugs (US definition)


  • Articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease
  • Articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals
• In the US, certain products can be cosmetics and drugs at the same time if they meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs
• Products that have both drug and cosmetic functions

  • Toothpaste with fluoride
  • Deodorants/antiperspirants
  • Mouthwash with anti-gingivitis ingredients
  • Facial foundations with sunscreen
  • Facial cleansers with anti-acne ingredients
  • Hand soaps with antibacterial agents
• Cosmetics (EU definition)


  Any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours
• Medicinal products (EU definition)


  • Any substance or combination of substances presented for treating or preventing disease in human beings or animals
  • Any substance or combination of substances which may be used in or administered to human beings or animals with a view to making a medicinal diagnosis or to restoring, correcting or modifying physiological functions by exerting a pharmacological, immunological or metabolic action
• Cosmetics (Japan definition)


  Items (other than quasi-drugs) with mild action on the human body and which are intended to be applied to the human body by means of rubbing, sprinkling and the like for the purpose of cleaning, beautifying, adding to the attractiveness, altering the appearance, or keeping the skin or hair in good condition
• Drugs (Japan definition)


  • Items recognized in the Japanese Pharmacopoeia
  • Items (other than quasi-drugs) which are intended for use in the diagnosis, cure or prevention of disease in humans or animals, and which are not equipment or instruments
  • Items (other than quasi-drugs and cosmetics), which are intended to affect the structure or functions of the body of humans or animals, and which are not equipment or instruments
• Cosmetics (Malaysia definition)


  Any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition
• Pharmaceutical product (Malaysia definition)


  • A drug in a dosage unit or otherwise, for use wholly or mainly by being administered to one or more human beings or animals for a medical purpose
  • A drug to be used as an ingredient of a preparation for a medicinal purpose
• In the US, a cosmetic product's intended use can be established through claims, consumer perception, and the history of an ingredient
• Certain claims may cause a cosmetic product to be regulated as a drug
• Cosmetic product


  A preparation intended to be placed in contact with various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition
• Pharmaceutical product


  • A drug in a dosage unit or otherwise, for use wholly or mainly by being administered to one or more human beings or animals for a medical purpose
  • A drug to be used as an ingredient of a preparation for a medicinal purpose
• How a Product's Intended Use is Established in the United States

  1. Claims

  2. Consumer perception of the product

  3. History of an ingredient's use
• Popular cosmetic claims in the US

  • Cosmeceutical
  • Organic
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Cruelty-free
• Cosmeceuticals


  • Multifunctional products that can be purchased as cosmetics and that are advertised to offer additional skin benefits over simple cosmetics
  • Generally advertised to contain bioactive ingredients that, although are not drugs, have visible and measurable short-term and long-term effects on the skin, such as improvement of fine lines
• Nutraceuticals


  The combination of natural ingredients and pharmaceuticals
• Dietary supplement


  A product taken by mouth that contains a dietary ingredient intended to supplement the diet
• Dietary supplements are regulated by the Dietary Supplement Health and Education Act (DSHEA) of 1994, not the FD&C Act that regulates cosmetics
• Differences between natural and synthetic ingredients

  • Natural ingredients have a higher chance of interactions with other ingredients in products
  • Natural ingredients do not have an established safety profile for a number of natural ingredients
  • We do not know whether they can cause allergic reactions
  • The actual prevalence of adverse effects when using organic ingredients is often unrecognized or underreported
• USDA categories for organic cosmetics and personal care products

  • 100% organic
  • Organic
  • Made with more than 70% organic ingredients
  • Made with less than 70% organic ingredients
  • 0% organic ingredients
• Hypoallergenic cosmetics


  Products claimed to produce fewer allergic reactions than other non-hypoallergenic cosmetic products
• The use of the term "hypoallergenic" is not regulated
• The FD&C Act does not specifically require the use of animals in testing cosmetics for safety
• There is no legal definition for "cruelty-free" and "not tested on animal" claims
• Preservative-free products


  • Formulations containing a higher percentage of ethanol, which has antimicrobial activity
  • Products with a specific pH value that does not favour the growth of microorganisms
  • Products with special packaging materials, such as airtight packaging, which ensures the absence of organisms
• A "dermatologist recommended" claim is probably based on a product survey, and one or many dermatologists could have endorsed the product
• Clinical testing is not required for cosmetic products that do not have drug claims
• The "clinically proven" claim refers to the fact that a product was tested in a clinical environment on humans, but the details of the clinical testing are usually not provided
• The "patented formula" logo does not necessarily mean that the product is more effective or has a longer performance
• The "pH balanced" claim does not necessarily mean that the product will be less irritating and will work better, as any decently formulated product is formulated in a pH range that is compatible with the skin, hair, underarms, or other application surfaces
• Major product categories in the cosmetic industry

  • Colour cosmetics
  • Skin care products
  • Hair care products
  • Oral care products
  • Perfumes
  • Other products
• Cosmetic ingredients


  Used in products to provide them with appropriate aesthetics, texture, pH, colour, and smell as well as to fulfil the cosmetic claims for products
• Active ingredients (OTC cosmetic)


  Deliver the claimed therapeutic action and have an effect on the human body, i.e., to prevent and/or treat a disease
• Types of cosmetic ingredients

  • Abrasives
  • Antioxidants
  • Chelating agents
  • Colour additives
  • Fragrances
  • Moisturizers
  • Plasticizers
  • Preservatives
  • Propellants
  • Solvents
  • Surfactants