Semis cosmetics lec

• The cosmetics' industry has experienced some significant changes in the past five years. Marketing has evolved, the consumer has become more knowledgeable and demanding, and cosmetics themselves have become more sophisticated and innovative.
• Technological advances have allowed for the creation of multifunctional products that perform more than their basic role.
• Multifunctional products


  • Foundations with high sun protection factor (SPF) protect from ultraviolet (UV) rays
  • Lipsticks moisturize
  • Mascaras lengthen, curve, and thicken
• The biggest performance development in color cosmetics has been the creation of "stay-on" products, which are long lasting.
• Makeup products contribute also in a significant way to the general health and well-being of women. They have a major role, which is to provide psychological stimulation to satisfy personal desires for self-improvement, self-adornment, and good grooming for one's own sense of well-being and for the general attention or attraction of others.
• Pigments used in current makeup applications

  • Organic pigments
  • Mineral pigments
  • Nacreous pigments

  
• Hydrophilic


  The surface properties of pigments and substrates used for makeup cosmetics

  
• Hydrophobic


  The surface properties of some pigments can be changed from hydrophilic to hydrophobic
• Surface treatments for pigments

  1. Electron-charge reactions

  2. Mechanochemical processes

  3. Chemical interactions

  4. Mechanical processes
• Hydrophobic pigments


  • Treated inorganic colors
  • DC colors
  • Nylon
  • Titanium dioxide
  • Talc
  • Kaolin
  • Mica, and other minerals
• Waxes


  Give rigidity and solidity to lipsticks
• Oils


  Give lipsticks their slippery and soft aspect when applied
• Coloring agents


  Present in lipsticks between 2% and 10%, can be synthetic pigments or minerals like iron oxides and titanium dioxides
• Additives in lipsticks


  • Sun filters
  • Antioxidizers
  • Vitamins (E, C, and B5)
  • Moisturizing agents
  • Ceramides
  • Light fragrance
• Standard lipstick manufacture


  1. Mixing waxes, oils and extenders at high temperature

  2. Producing a concentrated dispersion of pigment

  3. Adding the colored paste at high temperature with the rest of the formula

  4. Molding the colored paste
• Glossy lipsticks


  Have a higher level of the waxy phase (up to 80%) and a higher ratio of oil to wax, with a weaker rate of pigments (0–5%)
• Matte lipsticks


  Use talcs, nylon powder, silica or polymethylmethacrylate to give a powdered, slippery, and very soft touch
• Constituents of nail enamel

  • Lacquer
  • Agent for adhesion and gloss
  • Solvents
  • Plasticizers
  • Pigments
  • Thixotropic agents
• Face makeup products are used to make the skin look natural and beautiful for as long as possible by unifying the color of the skin, improving a dull and tired complexion, giving a matte finish, and masking possible imperfections.
• Desired properties of face makeup

  • Easy application
  • Natural complexion
  • Pleasant texture
  • Good adhesive property
  • Comfortable
  • Consistent color
  • Smooth finish
  • No transfer
  • Oil-free
• Ingredients in foundations


  • Ceramides
  • Moisturizing agents like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, vegetable oils
  • Free radical scavengers (vitamin E)
  • UV filters (UVA-UVB)
  • Firming complexes
• Forms of face foundations

  • Liquids
  • Gels
  • Creams
  • Solid creams
  • Cakes (pancakes)
  • Mousse
  • Sticks (pen stick)
• Basic facial foundation formulations

  • Oil-in-water
  • Water-in-oil
  • Oil-free
  • Water-free or anhydrous
• Oil-based foundations


  Water-in-oil emulsions containing pigments suspended in oil, such as mineral oil, vegetable oils, and synthetic esters
• Water-based foundations


  Oil-in-water emulsions containing a small amount of oil in which pigments are emulsified with a relatively large quantity of water
• Oil-free foundations


  Contain vegetable or mineral oils, silicones dimethicone or cyclomethicone, which leave the skin with a dry feeling
• Forms of oil-free foundations

  • Alcohol based
  • Glycerin based
  • Creams or lotions (ideal for oily or acne-prone skin)
• Water-free or anhydrous foundations

  Are waterproof, and high concentration of pigments can be incorporated
• Most-used ingredients in face makeup

  • Mica
  • Titanium dioxide
  • Silica
• For women with oily complexions, lipids secreted from skin tissue collapse the makeup finishing and the surface of the finishing skin becomes glossy, since lipid from skin tissue is miscible with pigments and binder in makeup cosmetics.
• Surface treatments for face makeup

  • Perfluoroalkyl phosphate
  • Benzophenone and p-amino – organic low-molecular weight UV absorbers
  • Ultrafine titanium dioxides and zinc oxides
  • Novel silica-coated titanium dioxide with broad spectrum protection against UV rays
  • Organic polymers (teflon and silicones)
  • Active ingredients (collagen, elastin, and vitamine E)
• Face powders


  Provide coverage of complexion imperfections, oil control, matte finish, and tactile smoothness to the skin
• Ingredients in face powder mixture

  • Talc and serecite
  • Chalk or kaolin
  • Magnesium stearate
  • Zinc oxide and titanium oxide
  • Pigments
• Mica


  Improves skin feel, product application, and skin adhesion
• Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)


  A fine white powder with a high bulk density, used as a filler with no luster when in a particular crystal form
• Coated mica pigments


  • Titanium dioxide
  • Barium sulfate
  • BiOCl
  • Organic compounds
• Powders also contain organic texture agents (polymers), mineral agents (boron nitride and silica), preservatives, anti-oxidants, and perfumes.
• Major categories of eye makeup

  • Mascaras
  • Eyeliners
  • Eyeshadows
• Mascaras


  Thicken, sheathe, separate, and lengthen eyelashes to obtain an intense look

  
• Types of liquid mascaras

  • Water-based
  • Solvent-based
  • Water/solvent hybrid