Pivot Point - Colour

• Tone of hair


  Warm, cool, neutral
• Primary Colours


  • Yellow
  • Red
  • Blue
• Secondary Colours


  • Orange
  • Green
  • Violet
• Blue


  The darkest
• Blue


  Complementary colour to orange
• Level system


  10 Lightest blonde, 1 black
• Agree with clients wishes

  Final result based on underlying / contributing pigment
• Pheomelanin


  Red/yellow pigment, dense concentration red hair
• 25-30% grey


  Apply colour 1 level higher / lighter
• May need to pre-soften/pre-lighten resistant hair
• 
  

  Predominant colour of the haircolour - Base colour
• Fine hair


  • Less resistant, May appear darker, mild lightener recomended
• resistant porosity


  Cuticle Smooth, tightly packed & compacted colour absorption take longer
• Average Porosity 


  • Cuticle = Slightly raised, Accepts colour easily
• Extreme Porosity 


  • Cuticle lifting/ missing Take colour too dark and not hold it
• Semi-permanent Molecules


  Smaller in size & weight, than temporary colours to penetrate cuticle layer
• Metallic / Compound dyes

  Wareliable & Sometimes unsafe
• Demi-permanent


  Low Vol. Only deposit/add tones no lift
• Hydrogen peroxide

  Capable of lifting & depositing, Contains small colour molecules (para-dyes), Enter hair with aid from alkaline substance ie ammonia
• High lift tints

  Generally use 30/40 vol
• Developers PH


  2.5-4.5 for all the oxidative colour
• Lighteners


  Utilize ammonia and peroxide, Penetrate cortex breaking down melonin
• Off Scalp


  much stronger & lighters faster
• Time varies based on the amount of natural pigment
• Violet


  Makes pale yellow go neutral blande
• Double Process


  1. 1-lift/decolour

  2. 2-Toner / recolour
• Dimensional Colouring


  Positioning of highlights/low lights
• Retouch


  1. Apply only to regrowth, over lapping can cause breakage or dark bands
• All colour containing aniline derivative -patch test required
• Virgin


  Colour applied @ midstrand up to ends
• Body heat


  Accelerates base area processing time
• Gray coverage


  If not strong enough, choose darker colour