Chemical Texture ml chapter 15

• Permanent Wave


  Wrapped and permed, then neutralized
• Alkaline Perm Solution


  Suitable for coarse hair
• Active Ingredient: Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)


  Used in alkaline perm solutions
• Acidic Perm Solution


  Less cuticle swelling; ideal for fine hair
• Active Ingredient: Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMT)


  Used in acidic perm solutions
• pH of acid balanced perm solution

  7.0 (neutral)
• True acid waves

  • Have a pH of 4.5-7.0
• Exothermic waves


  • Creates heat
• Hair Processing


  Happens in the first 5-10 minutes
• Alkaline solution


  Breaks more disulfide bonds, may not hold curl
• Over processed hair- curly @ scalp and straight ends
• Underprocessed hair- Straight @ scalp and curly ends
• Rod Types


  • Concave (most common, smaller diameter in center)
  • Straight (produces uniform curl along strands width)
  • Soft bender (hybrid combo of soft waves + curls)
  • Loop ("circle rod" usually 12" in diameter)
• End Paper Wraps


  • Double Flat (1 paper on top, 1 on bottom)
  • Single flat (1 paper on top)
  • Bookend (folded in half over ends, used on short hair)
• Base Sections


  The length & width of rod
• On-Base Wrapping


  Wrapped 45° beyond to its base + positioned on base
• Croquignole Wrapping


  • Ends towards the scalp, produces tighter curl on ends & bigger at scalp
• Spiral Wrapping


  • Wraps hair vertically, curls consistent through the strands length
• Wrapping Patterns


  • Basic "Straight set" (all rods within a panel more in the same direction; all base sections are horizontal)
  • Bricklay (base sections one offset from each other)
  • Spiral (wrapped vertically, produces uniform curl)
  • Double-end/ Piggy back (roots in one rod, ends in another)
• Soft Curls- Jheri curl


  Invented by Jheri Redding
• Pre-Test Curls


  Confirm results for rod size & technique
• Applying Protective Creams


  Hairline, Nape, Ears
• You have to wait 2 weeks to apply on oxidative haircolor
• You can apply non-oxidative haircolor the night after
• Don't wash hair for 48 hours after a perm
• A substitute for ammonium thioglycolate- cysteamine
• Break and rebuild 50% of disulfide bonds are broken and rebuilt