Hair colour ml chapter 16

• Cortex


  Oxidative hair dye molecules are deposited here
• High Porosity Hair


  • Lifted, cuticle
  • Takes colour & fades quickly
• Level System


  1 Black - 10 Light Blonde
• Primary Colours


  • Blue
  • Red
  • Yellow
• Blue


  Strongest brings depth/ darkness
• Red


  Medium, makes blue lighter & yellow darker
• Yellow


  Weakest makes colours lighter & brighter
• Tertiary Colours


  • Blue-green
  • Red-orange
• Complementary Colours


  Neutralize each other
• Tones


  • Warm
  • Cool
  • Neutral
• Hair Colour Types


  • Oxidative-Demipermanent, Permanent
  • Non-Oxidative-Temporary, Semipermanent
• Semipermanent


  Fading to each shampoo
• Demipermanent


  Used on ends when dying new growth with permanent
• Discard leftover Hair Colour
• Do not use oxidative on metallic
• Conditioner Fillers


  Recondition & Equalize porosity
• Always patch test 24-48 hrs before
• Do a strand test in different areas
• More melanin


  Longer processing time
• Highlighting Techniques


  • Foils
  • Slicing
  • Weaving
  • Balayage
• Powder/Clay off scalp lightener used when doing a balayage
• Gray Hair


  • Low porosity - Flat cuticle
• Gray Hair Processing


  Use high volume developer/pre-soften hair
• Gray Hair Formulation


  Formulate at level 7 or deeper
• To create warm coppery reds use a red-orange or red gold base colour
• Don't lighten brunettes more than 2 levels to avoid brassy tones
• Adding highlights will break up solid colour & give appearance of lighter hair
• 10 Volume Developer


  To deposit colour, no lift
• Off-scalp


  Strong , lifts up to 4 levels
• Process hair colour based on your analysis
• 70-90 percent gray hair

  Use 2 parts desired & 1 part lighter level
• Main ingredient in lightener is sodium persulfate
• Lightener is a chemical compound that recolours the hair