Erd shifting

• Cosmetic Product


  Cosmetic Product Development, Regulation, and Safety Assessment

  
• PHA6133 LABORATORY, 3RD, 2nd Semester, A.Y. 2023՞2024
• Ms. Irish Mhel C. Mitra, RPh, MSc. / Ms. Racquel C. Cruz, RPh, MSc
• Face Powder


  • Can dramatically alter skin tone, texture and condition of the face
  • Has as its prime function the ability to complement skin color by imparting a velvet like finish
  • Opaque enough to mask minor blemishes (but must not impart a mask like effect)

  
• As a consumer, usually the characteristics include


  hypoallergenic, lightweight, and may coverage. In terms of functions, for oil control and for setting.
• Covering Power


  • Ability to mask skin defects such as skin shine, enlarged pores and minor blemishes
  • Must be opaque enough to mask minor blemishes but must not impart a mask-like effect.

  
• Slip


  • Ability of spreading over the skin without dragging and giving the characteristic smooth feeling
  • Ability to glide.
• Adhesiveness


  Ability to cling to face
• Absorbency


  Capable of absorbing skin secretions (perspiration and oiliness) without showing evidence of such absorption
• Hindi ideal ang may butil-butil ng puti sa mukha dahil kita ang pag-absorb ng base powder.
• Bloom


  Ability to impart a velvety peach-like finish to the skin
• Shine Control


  • Achieve a matte or velvet-like finish
  • Loose powder has better oil and moisture absorbing properties

  
• UV Light Protection


  • UV light protection - protection from harmful UV rays
• Improves Skin Tone


  • Right shade can brighten the skin
• Cover Up Imperfections


  • Pressed powder clings better to skin and application lasts longer
• Improves Skin Condition


  • emollients, anti-oxidants, nutrients
• Forms of Face Powder


  • Loose
  • Compact/Pressed

  
• Types of Face Powder


  • Translucent
  • Tinted

  
• Binding Ability


  • Compressed easily, hold together and does not crumble or chip
  • Binding agents are added to facilitate compression
• Pay-off


  Color sufficiently pay-off when rubbed with a powder puff
• Fillers


  • Base for pigments
  • Contributes to the slip and consistency of powders
  • May also increase the adhesiveness of facial powders to the skin

  
• Absorbents


  • Increases the overall density of face powder
  • Absorbs excess oil from the skin
  • Imparts a certain degree of skin adhesion to the finished product

  
• Absorbents


  • Kaolin
  • Precipitated Chalk
  • Magnesium Carbonate
  • Starch
• Binders


  • Help the cake stick together
  • Provide some water repellency to the formulas
  • Provide adherence to the skin
• Binders


  • Dry: Zinc and Magnesium Stearate
  • Wet: Mineral oil, lanolin derivative 3%
  • Water soluble: Gum tragacanth, gum kaya, PVC, CMC-water solution
  • Water repellant: Mineral oil, fatty esters, esters, lanolin derivatives
  • Emulsion binder: Soap, triethanolamine stearate, glyceryl monostearate
• Colorants


  Used to create the desired tint /toner
• Inorganic and Organic Pigments


  • Iron Oxides (Hematite, Limonite, Umber, Sienna, Ochre, Magnetite)
  • Natural: Mica, Aluminum, Bronze
  • Synthetic: Bismuth oxychloride, Mother of pearl
• Covering Agents


  • Opacifier which has covering properties
  • Protect the skin from sunburn (Sunscreen property)
• Covering Agents


  • Zinc Oxide
  • Titanium Dioxide
• Silicon and Silicates


  • Keep skin moisturized since they lock in moisture to the skin
  • Maintain free flowing characteristics even with high humidity
  • Perfume carriers
• Silicon and Silicates


  • Dimethicone and Magnesium trisilicates
• Perfume


  • Light fragrance ranges from 0.2՞1%
  • Enhances the intrinsic appeal
  • Non-irritancy
  • Stable to mildly alkaline condition
  • Should not undergo oxidation or volatilize easily
• Ingredients and Uses


  • Talc: Slip, absorbency, bloom
  • Kaolin: Absorbency, adhesion
  • Precipitated CaCO3: Absorbency, bloom
  • MgCO3: Absorbency, fluffiness
  • Mg Stearate: Absorbency, water proofing
  • Silica and silicates: Absorbency
  • TiO2: Opacify
  • Frosted look materials (guanine, Bi-oxychloride, mother of pearl, Mica, Aluminum, Bronze): Sparkle, pearly effect
• Compression Methods


  1. Damp Compression: Blend → wet with binder → screen → compress → dry

  2. Dry Compression: Powder base → Color → Perfume → Mill powder → Add binder → Blend → Compress
• Manufacturing Procedure


  1. Base powder preparation

  2. Pass the powder mixture through sieve no. 100

  3. Add iron oxide in portions until desired color is achieved

  4. Add fragrance by spraying onto powder mixture

  5. Compress the powder manually onto the container
• Packaging of Face Powders


  • Loose Powders: Transparent plastic containers with a sifter and a puff
  • Compact Face Powder: Godet with a sponge and mirror

  
• Safety Parameters


  • Ingredients causing safety concern: Talc (potentially contaminated with asbestos)
• Quality Parameters


  • Compressibility and flow properties of powders
  • Transfer resistance
  • Color matching
  • Dispersion of pigments
  • Color uniformity
  • pH
• Quality Parameters for Loose Powders


  • Bulk and Tapped densities
• Quality Parameters for Compact Face Powder

  • Cake
  • Glazing
  • Pay-off