Prevailing wind pushes constructive waves at an angle up and down the beach, moving material through longshore drift
Longshore drifts continues to the end of the mainland
A change in direction of the coastline leads to sediment being deposited, building an extension of the land into sea
Secondary winds cause sediment deposition to occur at a different angle, forming a recurved hook
What is a beach?
An area of accumulated sand, pebbles, stone or gravel deposited along a shore by the action of waves
Formation of a beach
Constructive waves deposit material through the strong swash
Weak backwash moves little sediment back to sea
Over time material builds up to form a beach. Smallest material is deposited nearer to the water by weak backwash from destructive waves, while larger sediment is at the back of the beach due to high-energy storm waves carrying large sediment
Formation of a v-shaped valley
Vertical erosion by hydraulic action, abrasion and solution occurs, deepening the valley
As the river erodes downwards, the sides of the valley are exposed to freeze-thaw weathering, loosening the rocks and steepening the valley sides
Over time, rocks break off the valley sides through mass movement and the material is transported further downstream by the river
If there are areas of more resistant rock, the river will bend around them, creating interlocking spurs
Formation of meanders
Water flows fastest on the outside bend (thalweg), Causing more erosion through hydraulic action and abrasion
The erosion undercuts the river bank, forming a river cliff
River flows slower on the inside bend as there is more friction.
Deposition occurs forming a slip off slope on the inside bend
Formation of an oxbow lake
Erosion and deposition continues, increasing the size of the meander
The river current erodes the meander neck through lateral erosion, causing it to get narrower
When it floods, the river cuts across the neck, taking the shorter and straighter route
The flow of water at the entry and exit from the meander becomes slower
The meander becomes cut off from the river channel, forming an oxbow lake