PEH4

• Overhand Knot


  The simplest type of knot. It is made by crossing the rope end around the standing part to form a loop, bringing the rope's end through the loop, and pulling the rope out
• Overhand Knot


  • It is often used to prevent the end of a rope from unraveling
  • It should be used if the knot is intended to be permanent
• Figure Eight Knot


  One of the strongest knots. It forms a secure, non-slip loop at the end of a rope. Also known as the Flemish Bend, this is the most widely used tie-in knot by mountain climbers.
• Square (Reef) Knot


  The knot is formed by tying a left-handed overhand knot and then a right-handed overhand knot, or vice versa. "right over left; left over right". It is used to tie the two ends of a single line together such that they will secure something, for example a bundle of objects, that is unlikely to move much.
• Sheepshank Knot


  A simple knot useful for temporarily shortening a rope. It can be used to strengthen a rope at its weak point by placing the weak part in the middle between the two loops.
• Slip Knot


  A stopper knot which is easily undone by pulling the tail (working end). It will tighten around an object when pulled from the "short end" if not attached to an object it will pull through (untie). Use this when you need to create your own shelter or secure something to a post.
• Clove Hitch


  This knot is used to temporarily fasten a rope to a spar, mast, tree trunk, and so on. It is made by passing the rope's end around an object and then crossing it over the rope's standing part to form a loop, then passing the end around the object again to form a second loop, through which the end is passed. The knot can be detached simply by lifting it off the object.
• Timber Hitch


  A knot used to attach a single length of rope to a cylindrical object. Secure while tension is maintained, it is easily untied even after heavy loading. It does not jam or slip, no matter how heavy the load and is easy to tie and untie.
• Bowline


  The bowline forms a loop that cannot slip. It is frequently referred to as a rescue knot due to its use in rescue harnesses. It is made by laying the rope's end over its standing part to form a loop over the end, then taking the end around behind the standing part and through the loop.
• Fire starting


  The process of starting a fire artificially
• Fire starting


  • With the aid of several components and the recognition of the fire triangle (heat, oxygen, fuel), a fire could be made in the wilderness or campsites
  • In Scouting and camping, starting fires is an essential skill as heat and warmth could be vital in the outside environment, and also necessary for survival
• Steps to start a fire


  1. Picking a place

  2. Tinder, kindling, fuel wood

  3. Laying down the fire/ types of fire lays

  4. Putting out a fire
• Tinder


  Material like dry leaves, dry bark, wood shavings, dry grass, and some fluffy fungi that catches fire easily but burns fast
• Kindling


  Small twigs and branches that catch fire from the tinder and keep the fire going longer, until such time that fuel wood could catch fire
• Fuel wood


  Large logs or medium-sized branches and sticks that keep the fire hot and burning the longest but are also the slowest to catch fire
• Collect more tinder, kindling and fuel wood than you need as fires consume a surprisingly large amount of materials over time, and you would need a lot to keep it going for an entire night
• Drier is better when it comes to materials. If leaves, twigs or sticks are "green" or wet, they would not catch fire or would otherwise take a long time
• Wood, when too big or too small, would fail to sustain a fire due to their inappropriate size
• Teepee fire lay


  1. Place tinder bundle in the middle

  2. Form a teepee with kindling above tinder bundle, leaving an opening on the side the wind is blowing against

  3. Continue adding kindling to the teepee, working up to pencil sized twigs

  4. Create a larger teepee structure around kindling teepee with fuel wood

  5. Place a match under tinder

  6. The teepee structure will eventually fall, and at this point you can simply add some fuel logs to the fire
• Lean-to fire lay


  1. Stick a long piece of kindling into the ground at about a 30-degree angle, with the end pointing into the wind

  2. Place a tinder bundle underneath the support stick

  3. Place some small pieces of kindling around tinder nest

  4. Lay small pieces of kindling against the piece stuck in the ground, adding larger pieces

  5. Light the tinder
• Log cabin fire lay


  1. Start off by creating a small teepee lay

  2. Get large pieces of fuel wood and place them on opposite sides of the tepee

  3. Find smaller pieces of fuel wood and lay them across the first set of fuel wood, parallel on the other sides of the tepee

  4. Repeat laying smaller and shorter pieces to form a cabin or pyramid shape

  5. Light it up
• Putting out a fire


  1. Start early

  2. Sprinkle, don't pour

  3. Stir

  4. Touch test

  5. Dispose the ashes

  6. Patch up your ground
• Keep your fire's size to an appropriate level, do not let it get too big or wild
• Not all stones can be used or rubbed together to start a fire, as opposed to cartoons. Only specific igneous rocks, such as flint, obsidian and others could induce a spark when struck quickly and strongly enough
• Do not put body parts near the fire to avoid burns and serious injury. Warmth is radiated well enough from the fire
• Never play with fire
• Essential materials


  • Flint and steel
  • Tinderboxes
  • Pocket knives
• KNOT TYING

  • simple mechanical skill, a sill that you will never forget, but it takes practice, repetition in other words so the skills become natural
  • often times, it is the simplest of skills that you have, which will be the most useful
• First Aid


  The immediate care given to a person/victim who has suddenly become ill or has been injured
• Conditions Requiring First Aid

  • Fainting
  • Nose Bleed
  • Fracture
  • Wounds
• Fainting


  • Caused by a sudden fall in the supply of blood to their brain that results in the temporary loss of consciousness
  • Signs & Symptoms: Sweating, Dizziness, Nausea, Weakness, Paleness, Ringing in the ears, Blurred vision
• First Aid for Fainting

  1. Lay the person flat on the ground

  2. Elevate the legs to coax more blood into their brain

  3. Loosen tight clothing

  4. Avoid crowding the patient

  5. Call a doctor if necessary
• First Aid for Fainting (if person is on a chair)


  1. Push his head down between his knees

  2. Loosen tight clothing

  3. Avoid crowding the patient

  4. Call a doctor if necessary
• Nose Bleed


  • Occurs when a small blood vessel in the lining of the nose bursts
  • Very common in children and often result from harmless activities such as picking their nose, blowing it too hard or too often or from getting knocked on the nose during play
• First Aid for Nose Bleed


  1. Sit down and lean forward slightly

  2. Pinch the lower part of the nostrils just below the bony part of the nose for 10minutes while breathing through the mouth

  3. Release nostrils slowly, repeat procedure if bleeding continue

  4. Do not touch or blow the nose for about 24hrs

  5. Do not pack the affected nostrils with cotton

  6. Bring patient to hospital if necessary
• Wounds


  • Break in the continuity of a tissue either external or internal
  • Open (external)
  • Closed (internal)
• Wounds usually result from external physical forces. The most common causes of wounds are motor vehicle accidents, falls and the mishandling of sharp objects, tools, machinery, and weapons
• Open Wound


  A break in the skin or in a mucous membrane
• Closed Wound


  Involves underlying tissues without a break in the skin or a mucous membrane
• Types of Open Wounds

  • Abrasion
  • Puncture
  • Laceration
  • Avulsion