DRESSMAKING 7

• Laying out and pinning of pattern pieces on the fabric in preparation for cutting is one of the most important procedures in sewing a sleeping garment
• Fabric preparation


  1. Straightening (Preshrink)

  2. Shrinking
• Straightening (Preshrink)


  • Tear the fabric both ends
  • Draw a thread and cut along the line made and pull a thread from it
  • Fold lengthwise matching selvages to see whether the ends now match
  • Press or iron the fabric to remove wrinkles
• Shrinking fabric

  1. Fold the fabric lengthwise

  2. Pin the selvages and ends together

  3. Immerse it in hot water and let it stand for 30-60 minutes

  4. Remove water and avoid wringing

  5. Lay/hang the fabric on the flat surface to dry. Avoid stretching

  6. Press, if necessary, when it is completely dry
• Laying out pattern pieces

  1. Arrange the pattern pieces of fabric laid on a flat smooth surface of the table

  2. Align the pattern pieces on the surface of the fabric parallel to the selvage

  3. Consider the design in lying out of pattern and maximize the materials to avoid wasting

  4. Lay out the largest piece of the pattern first down to the smallest pieces

  5. Check the fabric if it is right side to right side before going through
• Selvage


  The finished edge of the fabric
• Pinning a pattern to fabric

  1. Vertical

  2. Horizontal

  3. Diagonal
• Techniques in pinning the pattern pieces to fabric

  • Check the folded edge of the pattern pieces aligns with the fabric fold
  • Check the distance of the pattern pieces before pinning them
  • Start pinning the corner of the pattern pieces diagonally to hold more the pattern and to make it flat
  • Adjust the pattern if necessary
  • Put only enough pins, too many pins may twist the edge of the pattern and fabric
  • Place the pins on the seam allowances, 2.5 cm or 1 inch away from the edge of the fabric or pattern pieces. The distance of each pin is at least 12.5cm or 5 inches away from the other pins
• Always minimize the pin holes if possible, most especially on a delicate fabric
• In laying out of pattern pieces on the fabric, you must consider the design in lying out of pattern and maximize the materials to avoid wasting
• Correct size


  Ensure pattern pieces are the correct size
• Laying out pattern pieces

  1. Check the distance of the pattern pieces before pinning them

  2. Start pinning the corner of the pattern pieces diagonally to hold more the pattern and to make it flat

  3. Adjust the pattern if necessary

  4. When both ends line up, pin in place starting with a pin in the grainline

  5. Put only enough pins, too many pins may twist the edge of the pattern and fabric

  6. Place the pins on the seam allowances, 2.5 cm or 1 inch away from the edge of the fabric or pattern pieces

  7. The distance of each pin is at least 12.5cm or 5 inches away from the other pins
• In laying out of pattern pieces on the fabric, you must consider the design of the fabric
• The fabric should be wrong side to wrong side when laying out the pattern pieces
• Lay-out the small pattern pieces before the big pieces
• Pin the pattern pieces anywhere you want
• The fabric preparation is the first step in constructing the sleeping garment
• Fabric preparation


  The first steps in constructing a well-fitted sleeping garment
• Shrinking fabric

  Immerse fabric in hot water for 30-60 minutes, lay flat to dry, press if necessary
• Selvages and ends should be pinned together when shrinking fabric
• Avoid wringing the fabric when removing water after shrinking
• Lay the fabric on a flat surface to dry, avoid stretching
• Press the fabric if necessary when completely dry
• Seam allowance


  The distance of pins from the edge of the fabric or pattern pieces
• Pin spacing


  The distance of pins away from the other pins
• Tools


  The materials used in laying out the pattern pieces
• Fabric edge


  The finished edge of the fabric
• Procedures in laying out and pinning of patterns to fabrics should be correctly followed
• Finished laying out and pinning of patterns to fabrics should be ahead of time