Waves

• Things that determine wave strength:

  1. Speed of wind
  2. Fetch (distance the wind blows) {further=stronger}
  3. Time (longer time it blows=stronger)
• Backwash - the movement of water flowing back towards the sea, due to gravity
• Swash - the movement of water rushing up the beach
• Constructive waves characteristics:

  • Made by storms hundreds of miles away from land
  • Short wave height
  • Long wave length
  • Strong swash & Weak backwash
  • Creates gentle beach
• Constructive waves vs Destructive waves

  A) Destructive

  B) Constructive

  C) Strong swash

  D) Weak backwash

  E) Weak swash

  F) Strong backwash

  
• Destructive waves characteristics:

  • Created by local storms
  • High wave height
  • Short wave length
  • Weak swash & Strong backwash
  • Creates steep beaches