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Cards (321)

  • What type of waves have longer wavelengths and lower frequencies?
    Constructive waves
  • How does the fetch of constructive waves compare to destructive waves?
    Constructive waves have a short fetch
  • Where are constructive waves typically found?
    Gently-sloping coastlines
  • What type of coastlines do destructive waves break on?
    Coasts with a steep gradient
  • What is the effect of constructive waves on coastlines?
    They build coastlines
  • What do constructive waves create on coastlines?
    Berms
  • What is the primary effect of destructive waves on coastlines?
    They erode coastlines
  • In what conditions do destructive waves typically form?
    In storms
  • What type of weather is associated with constructive waves?
    Calm weather
  • How do the energy levels of destructive waves compare to constructive waves?
    Destructive waves have higher energy
  • What type of wave is characterized by crushing waves?
    Destructive waves
  • What type of wave is characterized by rolling waves?
    Constructive waves
  • Can coastlines have both constructive and destructive waves?
    Yes
  • What is erosion?
    The wearing away of the earth’s surface
  • What does fetch refer to in coastal processes?
    The distance of open water for wind
  • What is mass movement?
    Movement of material downhill by gravity
  • What is weathering?
    Breakdown of rock at or near the surface
  • What is backwash?
    Water receding back down the beach
  • What are constructive waves characterized by?
    Low height and powerful swash
  • What defines destructive waves?
    High wave height and strong backwash
  • What is swash?
    The rush of water up the beach
  • What causes tides?
    The gravitational pull of the sun and moon
  • What is a coastal sediment budget?
    The balance of sediment added and removed
  • What characterizes a high energy coast?
    Strong winds create high energy waves
  • What defines a low energy coast?
    Low wave energy and high deposition rate
  • What are marine processes?
    Processes connected with the sea
  • What are sub-aerial processes?
    Processes that break down the coastline
  • What is eustatic change?
    A global change in sea level
  • What is a fjord?
    A drowned former glacial valley
  • What is isostatic change?
    Local changes in sea level
  • What are raised beaches?
    Former wave-cut platforms above sea level
  • What is a ria?
    A drowned former river valley
  • What is hard engineering?
    Physical changes using resistant materials
  • What is soft engineering?
    Using natural systems for coastal defense
  • What are Shoreline Management Plans (SMPs)?
    Reports assessing risks of coastal processes
  • What are the inputs in coastal systems?
    Energy from waves, wind, tides, sea currents
  • What are the components of erosional processes?
    Erosional landforms and landscapes
  • What are the outputs of coastal systems?
    Dissipation of wave energy and sediment removal
  • What are the different zones of the coastline?
    Backshore, foreshore, inshore, offshore, nearshore
  • What are the features of wind as an input into coastal systems?
    Variations in energy from wind strength and duration