Waves

Cards (8)

  • The energy acquired by the waves depends on:
    •  Wind velocity
    • Period of time during wind has blown 
    • Length of the fetch 
  • Wind velocity
    Where wind speeds are persistently high and uninterrupted wave energy is likely to be higher. Prevailing wind direction is likely to exert a strong influences over coastal processes
  • Period of time affecting Waves
    Longer wind has been blowing higher the energy
  • Fetch affecting waves
    Longer fetch higher energy
  • Constructive Waves
    • Shorter fetch 
    • Small or low wave and with a long wavelength 
    • Low frequency 
    • These waves spill over and the swash rapidly loses volume and energy due to the water percolating through the beach material; this means that backwash is weak. 
    • The wave has insufficient energy to move material along  the beach
  • Destructive Waves
    • Fetch distance is long 
    • High waves steep in form with a short wavelength
    • High frequency 
    • They are steep and rapidly plunge over 
    • Powerful backwash which moves considerable sediment also weakens the effect of the swash from the following wave. 
  • High Energy Waves
    • Coastlines where strong prevailing winds create high energy waves 
    • The rate of erosion often exceeds the rate of deposition of sediment
    • The North Cornish coastline where coastlines are exposed is a good example
    • Typical landforms include headlands, cliffs and wave cut platforms.
  • Low Energy Waves
    • Coastlines where wave energy is low. 
    • The rate of deposition often exceeds the rate of erosion of sediment
    • The Baltic Sea is a good example with sheltered water and low tidal range
    • Typical Landforms include beaches and spits