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Coastal Systems and Landscapes
Energy at the coast and wave formation
WAVES
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Created by
Daisy
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Cards (8)
What 3 factors affect
wave energy
?
wind strength
duration
of wind
the
fetch
What is the FETCH?
The
length
of
water
over which a
given wind
has
blown
give an example of a
fetch
?
SW england
has an
unbroken fetch -3000miles
to
brazil
as the
prevailing wind direction
is from the
south west
it means the
coastlines
of
cornwall
and
devon
will suffer
high wave energy
what is wave
frequency
?
the
number
of
wave CRESTS passing
a
certain point
each
second
what is
WAVE PERIOD
?
The time required for
two successive crests
to
pass
a
specified point
Why do waves
break
?
Waves start out at
sea
and have a
circular orbit
As waves approach the
shore friction slows
the
base
of the
wave
This causes the
orbit
to become
elliptical
Until the
top
of the
wave breaks over
what happens in the
OPEN OCEAN
?
Wind
drags the
surface molecules
of
water
and creates a
circular motion
What happens in the
shallows
?
the
friction
of the
seabed
causes the
wave
to
slow down
and move
horizontally
As it
slows
the
water
behind
backs up
and causes the
crest
to
topple forward
