Waves

• What happens to a wave as it approaches the shore?

  1. Frictional drag of the seabed slows down the waves base making it taller (elliptical)
  2. This reduces wavelength and increases height until the wave breaks as it is top heavy
• What factors affect the size and type of wave?

  • Wind strength
  • Wind direction
  • Fetch
• What frequency does a constructive wave have?

  Low frequency
• What type of swash does a constructive wave?

  Strong
• What type of beach does a constrictive wave create?

  A wide sloping beach
• What does a constructive wave carry?

  Carries material’s ashore
• What type of backwash do constructive waves have?

  Weak backwash which removes little material
• What type of frequency does destructive waves have?

  High frequency
• What type of swash do destructive waves have?

  Weak swash
• What do destructive waves carry?

  Little material ashore
• What type of backswash do destructive have?

  Strong backswash that removes lots of material
• What type of beach do destructive waves form?

  Forms a steep beach