Coastal systems and processes

• What does energy refer to at the coast?

  Power behind changes in the coastal system
• What is the main source of energy at the coast?

  The waves
• How are waves primarily generated?

  By wind
• What causes wind?

  Earth's rotation and atmospheric pressure differences
• What factors affect wave energy?

  Fetch, duration, and strength of wind

  
• How does tidal range affect wave energy?

  A high tidal range reduces energy concentration
• What happens in a low tidal range environment?

  Waves concentrate energy on the cliff longer
• What are rip currents?

  Localized channels of fast-moving water
• What characterizes high-energy coastlines?

  They face powerful waves most of the year
• What occurs at high-energy coastlines?

  Erosion exceeds deposition
• What landforms are typical of high-energy coastlines?

  Headlands with arches and caves
• What defines low-energy environments?

  Less powerful waves and more sheltered coasts
• What happens at low-energy coastlines?

  Deposition exceeds erosion
• What are the two main types of waves?

  Constructive and destructive
• What characterizes constructive waves?

  Long wavelength, low, spilling waves
• What is the effect of constructive waves on beaches?

  Build up the beach with a gentle profile
• What characterizes destructive waves?

  Short wavelength, high, plunging waves
• What is the effect of destructive waves on beaches?

  Beach is lost and profile steepens
• What can change the type of wave in an area?

  Time of year or coastal management
• What does wave refraction do?

  Changes energy reaching the shore locally

  
• How does wave energy concentrate at headlands?

  Increases the rate of erosion
• What is the primary source of coastal sediments?

  Rivers
• How does cliff erosion contribute to sediment?

  It provides sediment to the coastal zone
• What happens when coastlines retreat?

  Large input of sediment occurs
• How does wind contribute to sediment transport?

  It can build up sand dunes
• What happens in high latitude coastal areas?

  Glaciers deposit sediment at the coast
• What are sediment cells?

  Closed systems for sediment movement
• How many sediment cells are around the UK coastline?

  11 sediment cells
• What can sediment cells be divided into?

  Sub cells with inputs, stores, transfers, outputs
• What is the sediment budget?

  Balance between sediment inputs and outputs
• What is dynamic equilibrium in coastal systems?

  State where sediment budget is balanced
• What can disturb dynamic equilibrium?

  Human activity and climate change
• What is weathering?

  Breakdown of rock in its place of origin
• What are the types of weathering?

  Mechanical, biological, and chemical

  
• What is mechanical weathering?

  Rocks break up without chemical changes
• What is biological weathering?

  Rock breakdown due to organic activity
• What is chemical weathering?

  Rock breakdown due to a chemical reaction
• What is freeze-thaw weathering?

  Rocks break due to freezing and thawing cycles

  
• Where does freeze-thaw weathering occur?

  In places with nighttime freezing temperatures
• What is wetting and drying weathering?

  Rocks expand when wet and contract when dry