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Geography
Paper 1
Coasts
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Cards (45)
How do waves form?
Waves form when
wind
blows over the
sea
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What is fetch in relation to waves?
Distance wind blows across the
water
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What causes tsunamis?
Earthquakes
or
volcanic eruptions
shaking the
seabed
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What is swash in wave dynamics?
Water
that
moves
up
the
beach
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What is backwash in wave dynamics?
Water
that
comes
back
down
the
beach
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What are the characteristics of constructive waves?
Low waves that surge up the beach
Stronger
swash
than
backwash
Carry in
deposits
of sand and pebbles
Formed by storms far away
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What are the characteristics of destructive waves?
Higher waves with larger
backwash
Steep profiles
Plunge downwards and pull sediment back
Formed by
local storms
close to the coast
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What are the four main types of coastal erosion processes?
Hydraulic power
Abrasion
Attrition
Corrosion
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What is hydraulic power in coastal erosion?
Water enters cracks, compressing air and
exerting
pressure
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What is abrasion in coastal erosion?
Rocks
in water bash against cliffs, wearing them away
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What is attrition in coastal erosion?
Rocks and
pebbles
hit
each
other
and
break down
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What is corrosion in coastal erosion?
Weak acids
in seawater dissolve coastal rocks
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What are the two types of weathering processes?
Chemical weathering
Carbonation
Hydration
Mechanical weathering
Physical breakdown
of rocks
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What is carbonation in chemical weathering?
Weak
carbonic acids
attack rocks
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What is hydration in chemical weathering?
Water swells the
structure
of
rocks
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What is freeze-thaw in mechanical weathering?
Water freezes in rock cracks,
exerting
pressure
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What is mass movement in coastal processes?
Movement of
weakened
rocks
into the sea
Types include
landslides
,
slumping
, and
rock falls
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What is longshore drift?
Movement of sediment along the
coast
by waves
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How does longshore drift affect pebbles on the beach?
Pebbles are moved at an angle by
waves
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What causes deposition in coastal areas?
Waves
lose energy and drop sediment
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What are the erosional landforms created by coastal processes?
Cliff and
wave-cut platform
Headlands
and
bays
Caves
,
arches
, and
stacks
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How is a wave-cut notch formed?
By
erosion
at the base of a
cliff
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What forms a headland and a bay?
Hard rock remains while soft rock
erodes
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What happens to waves entering a bay?
They lose
energy
and deposit material
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What is the process of cave formation on a headland?
Erosion
creates caves that can become arches
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What are the types of deposition landforms?
Sandy
beaches
Pebble or shingle beaches
Sand dunes
Spits
Tombolos
Sandbars
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How do sandy beaches form?
In
sheltered bays
with
constructive waves
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How do pebble beaches form?
On exposed parts of the
coastline
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What are the stages of sand dune development?
Embryo dune
Fore dune
Yellow dune
Grey dune
Mature dune
Dune slack
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What is a spit in coastal geography?
A deposition landform formed by
longshore drift
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What is a tombolo?
An old
island
connected to a headland by a
spit
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What are the hard engineering coastal defenses?
Seawall
Groins
Rock armor
Gabions
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What is the purpose of a seawall?
To protect the
coast
from wave action
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What is a disadvantage of seawalls?
They can be
expensive
and obtrusive
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What do groins do?
They trap
sediment
to prevent erosion
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What is a disadvantage of groins?
They can cause
erosion
further along the coast
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What is rock armor used for?
To break and absorb
wave energy
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What is a disadvantage of rock armor?
They can be
expensive
to transport
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What are gabions used for?
To support
cliffs
and act as buffers
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What is a disadvantage of gabions?
They can rust and become
ineffective
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