Unit 2 lec

• Scientific Areas Contributing to Cosmetic Science:

  • Anatomy and Physiology
  • Chemistry
  • Pharmacology
  • Formulation Technology
  • Current Rules and Regulation
  • Analytical Science
  • Microbiology
  • Customer Needs
• Market Data:

  • Lists the top 3 leading companies globally and nationally in the cosmetic industry
• Definition of Terms:

  • Cosmetics: Intended for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering appearance without affecting structure or function
  • Drugs: Intended for diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease
  • Cosmeceuticals: Multifunctional products with additional skin benefits over simple cosmetics
  • International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) Names: Systematic names internationally recognized to identify cosmetic ingredients
• ASEAN Cosmetic Directives include:

  • Category of Cosmetic Products
  • Cosmetic Claim Guidelines
  • Cosmetic Ingredients (Prohibited, Restricted, Permitted)
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)
  • Product Categorization
• Scientific Areas Contributing to Cosmetic Science:

  • Anatomy and Physiology: Determines the distinction between cosmetics and drugs, helps understand the basic function of body parts
  • Chemistry: Identifies and understands the properties of different ingredients, determines compatibility of ingredients
  • Pharmacology: Tests the activity of cosmetic products in humans and animals
  • Formulation Technology: Understands methods and technology to produce products
  • Current Rules and Regulation: Guided by laws like the ASEAN Cosmetic Directives
  • Analytical Science: Conducts analytical assessments
  • Microbiology: Determines organisms of face/skin, conducts microbiology tests
  • Customer Needs: Satisfies the wants and needs of the target population
• In single-celled organisms, substances can easily enter the cell due to a short distance, while in multicellular organisms, the distance is larger because of a higher surface area to volume ratio
• Multicellular organisms require specialised exchange surfaces for efficient gas exchange of carbon dioxide and oxygen due to their higher surface area to volume ratio
• Scientific names of ingredients must be listed in decreasing order
• Scientific names with a part of their source must be stated, underlined separately, with the vernacular name enclosed in parenthesis
• If there is a cash registry number, it should be included
• Category of Cosmetic Products includes:

  • Creams, emulsions, lotions, gels, and oils for the skin
  • Face masks
  • Tinted bases
  • Makeup powders
  • Toilet soaps and deodorant soaps
  • Perfumes, toilet waters, and eau de Cologne
  • Bath and shower preparations
  • Depilatories
  • Deodorants and antiperspirants
  • Sunbathing products
  • Products for tanning without sun
  • Skin-whitening products
  • Anti-wrinkle products
  • Hair care products
  • Shaving products
  • Products for making-up and removing make-up
  • Products for care of the teeth and the mouth
  • Products for nail care and make-up
  • Products for external intimate hygiene
• Hair care products have specific guidelines for claims, such as changing "Eliminates dandruff permanently" to "It may help to remove production of dandruff"
• Nail products have guidelines for claims, like changing references to growth resulting from nourishment to "Helps nourishing"
• Oral or dental hygiene products have guidelines for claims, like changing claims related to treatment or prevention of oral diseases to "May help/prevent"
• Skin products have guidelines for claims, like not claiming to prevent, reduce, or reverse physiological changes brought about by aging
• Deodorants and antiperspirants have guidelines for claims, such as not claiming to completely prevent sweating/perspiration
• Cosmetic Ingredients:

  • Prohibited substances are listed in Annex II Part 1
  • Retinoin (INCI name: Retinoic acid) is restricted due to its side effects
  • Restricted substances are listed in Annex III Part 1
  • Thioglycolic acid esters are for professional use by hair stylists only
  • Permitted coloring agents are listed in Annex IV Part 1
• Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) studies individual chemical compounds as they are used in cosmetic products and provides safety assessments
• Skin Care Products:

  • Skin care market in the Philippines
  • Top 10 Brand Shares Skin Care
• Anatomy & Physiology of Skin:

  • Skin is the largest sensory and contact organ in the human body
  • Skin surface is slightly acidic, ranging between pH 4.5 and 5.5
  • Resident flora and transient flora
• Dermis Layer of Skin:

  • Dermis Layer
  • Amorphous Substance
• Epidermis Layer of Skin:

  • Stratum corneum (Keratin Layer)
  • Stratum lucidum (Glassy Layer)
  • Stratum granulosum (Granular Cell Layer)
  • Stratum spinosum (Prickle Cell Layer)
  • Stratum basale (Stratum germinativum)
  • Functions of the Epidermis
• Transepidermal Water Loss
• Skin Types:

  • Normal Skin
  • Oily Skin
  • Dry Skin
  • Combination Skin
  • Sensitive Skin
• Stratum corneum (Keratin Layer):

  • Made up of dead keratinocytes
  • Contains 15-30 layers of dead cells
  • Dead keratinocytes secrete defensins
  • "Brick and Mortar" Structure
• Normal Skin vs. Dehydrated Skin:

  • Normal skin is impenetrable to irritants and allergens
  • Dehydrated skin experiences shrinkage of corneocytes
  • Loss of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)
• Stratum lucidum (Glassy Layer):

  • Translucent or clear layer consisting of eleidin
  • Present in thicker skin found in the palms and soles
  • Absent in thin skin
• Stratum granulosum (Granular Cell Layer):

  • Contains lipid-rich granules
  • Consists of 3 to 5 layers of flattened keratinocytes
  • Cells begin to die and lose their nuclei
• Stratum spinosum (Prickle Cell Layer):

  • Contains 8 to 10 rows of cells
  • Responsible for lipid and protein synthesis
• Spiny layer:

  • Contains 8 to 10 rows of cells
  • Responsible for lipid and protein synthesis of the cell
• Keratinocytes:

  • Predominant cell type of the epidermis
  • Produce keratin
  • Responsible for the formation of the epidermal water barrier (lipids)
  • Regulate calcium absorption by activating cholesterol precursors with UVB light to form vitamin D
• Langerhans Cells:

  • Skin's first line defenders and play a role in antigen presentation
  • Dendritic cells involved in antigen presentation
• Stratum Basale (Stratum Germinativum):

  • Basal cell layer
  • Made up of a single layer of cells
  • Undergoes continuous cell division to form new keratinocytes
• Melanocytes:

  • Responsible for the pigment of the skin
  • UVB light stimulates melanin production (built-in sunscreen)
• Merkel Cells:

  • Located directly above the basement membrane
  • Serve a sensory function as mechanoreceptors for light touch
• Desquamation Process:

  • Natural process for maintaining the function of the stratum corneum and normal skin appearance
  • Involves cell division, migration of cells, and production of keratin
  • Includes skin cells changing shape in the stratum spinosum and flattening out in the stratum granulosum before desquamation
• Functions of the Epidermis:

  • Maintain optimal water content for the skin
  • Limit water loss through the skin
  • Sustain optimal lipid content
  • Provide immune protection
  • Act as an antioxidant barrier against reactive oxygen species
  • Synthesize vitamin D
  • Provide photoprotection
  • Determine skin color
  • Allow for desquamation of stratum corneum cells
• Dermis Layer:

  • Thickness ranges from 1.0 to 3.0 mm
  • Acts as a supporting frame to the epidermis
  • Supplies nutrients and oxygen to the epidermis through blood capillaries
• Amorphous Substance:

  • Acts as a mortar for all components of the dermis
  • Includes fibroblasts, nerves, blood vessels, sebaceous glands, sweat glands, hair follicles, collagen fibers, and elastin fibers
• Sebaceous Gland:

  • Part of the pilosebaceous unit
  • Secretes sebum to lubricate the skin and protect against friction