conchem - cosmetics

• Cosmetics can be defined as a substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body, used to cleanse, protect, and change the body’s appearance or alter its odors
• Cosmetics are not limited to makeup; they include creams, perfumes, talcum powder, shampoo, deodorants, and other toiletries
• The history of cosmetics dates back to ancient times, with Egyptians using scented oils and ointments for various purposes like cleaning, softening the skin, and protecting against the sun and dry winds
• Ancient Egyptians used raw ingredients like myrrh, thyme, marjoram, chamomile, lavender, and more for their perfumes used in religious rituals
• Egyptian women used galena mesdemet made from copper and lead ore for color and definition, as well as kohl for adorning the eyes
• Nail polish history began in ancient China, with early forms made of gelatin, beeswax, and egg, worn as a symbol of wealth and power
• In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair and the use of egg whites for a paler complexion were fashionable
• Italy and France emerged as the main cosmetics manufacturing centers in Europe, with only the aristocracy having access to these products
• European women attempted to lighten their skin using products like white lead paint, with Queen Elizabeth I known for using it to create a look known as “the Mask of Youth”
• In Edwardian Society, pressure increased on middle-aged women to appear youthful, leading to an increase in the use of cosmetics, although not yet wholly popularized
• Product forms are crucial for quality control in the cosmetic industry
• Certain cosmetics require specific forms to be effective for their intended purpose
• Viscosity is essential when discussing cosmetic product forms as it refers to the resistance to flow and how the product behaves when placed in a container
• The viscosity and product form are vital for:

  • Easy application
  • Dispensing the right amount
  • Meeting customers' perception
• Body mist requires low viscosity for even distribution, while lipsticks and lip balms need high viscosity to stick and protect the skin
• Shampoo needs to be viscous enough to pour in a controlled amount and stay in the hand during application
• Customers often judge the conditioning benefits of a conditioner by its thickness and creaminess
• Liquid cosmetic forms can range from flowing like water to honey-like consistency
• Water-based liquids can only contain a small amount of oils that are appropriately solubilized
• Examples of liquid cosmetic forms include perfume, body mist, and skin toner
• Gels are thicker than liquids and have limited flow properties, formed using gum or thickening agents
• Foaming gels describe products with honey-like viscosity, limited flow capacity, and prevent spillage by foaming up
• Serums vary from low viscosity gel to almost lotion-like, delivering critical ingredients with smaller molecules that penetrate deeply
• Lotions contain low viscosity emulsions and can be altered using different emulsifying agents, waxes, or thickening agents
• Creams contain medium to high viscosity emulsions and can be oil in water or water in oil emulsions
• Creams can have a light-after feel if water-based or a greasier-after feel if oil-based
• Balms are mostly or entirely oil-based with a semi-solid consistency
• Mud products are semi-solid with clay and oils
• Scrubs contain particles for mechanical skin exfoliation
• Powders are commonly used in color cosmetics like eye shadow, blushes, and mineral makeup
• Activity
• Cosmetic products in the market are required by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to have INCI labels, which stand for "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients"
• INCI labels provide a system of names for ingredients, botanicals, and chemicals used in cosmetic products
• Cosmetic labels include information such as the product's shelf life, testing procedure, manufacturer, distributor, and other properties
• Reading cosmetic labels is important to understand the ingredients, their functions, and potential effects on the skin or hair
• Chemists determine what to include in a cosmetic formula by considering different ingredients and their functions
• There are four main categories of ingredients in cosmetic products:

  • Functional Ingredients: main ingredients for the primary function
  • Structural Ingredients: provide structure and form
  • Supportive Ingredients: improve stability and shelf life
  • Added Extra: enhance consumer acceptance and marketability
• Cosmetic Ingredients: Abrasives are used to remove skin cells or plaque through friction

  Examples: Body exfoliants/scrubs like oat kernel meal, salt, sugar, and toothpaste abrasives like silica, sodium bicarbonate
• Cosmetic Ingredients: Antioxidants reduce oxidation and rancidity, lengthen shelf life, and are marketed as skin nurturers

  Examples: Vitamins like tocopherol (Vitamin E) and plant extracts like green tea leaf extract
• Cosmetic Ingredients: Chelating Agents improve product stability by binding metal ions, essential in foaming products

  Examples: Citric acid, EDTA