Waves are formed when the wind blows over an open water body causing oscillation of water particles. The length of water the wind blows over is called its fetch. The stronger the wind is, the longer it blows for, and the longer the fetch, the larger the waves will be and the more energy they will have
When a wave reaches the shore, the water particles below the surface start touching the ocean floor causing it to break. There is a forward movement of water to the beach which is called a swash/send. The water rushing up the sand is called the uprush. There is backward movement of water to the sea due to gravity called backwash. The rest flows at the bottom back into the sea in a water current called undertow