Moisturizing formulation

• UNIT 4: MOISTURIZING CREAM
• Moisturizers are designed to improve the skin quality, maintain and/or restore the moisture content of stratum corneum, and aid in alleviating the symptoms of dry skin
• Dry skin is the shrinkage of corneocytes, which exposes the layer to microorganisms, eventually causing inflammation and irritation
• Moisturizers

  • Humectants
  • Emollients
  • Occlusives
  • Skin Rejuvenating
• Humectants


  • Draw water into the outer layer of the skin from the air or underlying layers of the skin
  • Long term use alone can cause dryness in the dermis
• Humectants


  • Glycerin/glycerol
  • Sorbitol
  • Urea
  • Sodium lactate
• Emollients


  • Form an oily layer on top of the skin that traps water
  • Fill in the gaps between cells on the skin
• Emollients

  • Hydrocarbons (Mineral oil, Petrolatum)
  • Fatty acids (Stearic acid, Linoleic acid, Lauric acid)
  • Vegetable oils (Almond oil)
  • Waxes (Beeswax, Carnauba wax, Polyethylene wax, Cetyl alcohol)
• Occlusives


  • Create a hydrophobic barrier to physically block TEWL
  • Commonly used with humectants to prevent water loss
• Occlusives


  • Petrolatum
  • Silicon derivatives (i.e., dimethicone)
• Skin Rejuvenating


  • Protein-containing compounds that work by rejuvenating and enhancing the skin barrier
• Skin Rejuvenating


  • Collagen
  • Keratin
  • Elastin
• Emulsifiers

  Stabilize moisturizing formulations
• Examples of tage

  • sticky especially petrolatum
• SKIN REJUVENATING

  • Protein containing compounds
  • Collagen
  • Keratin
  • Elastin
• EMULSIFIERS


  1. Majority of moisturizing formulations are emulsions

  2. Stabilizes the formulation

  3. Has a large impact on the rheological properties of the formulation
• EMULSIFIERS


  • Nonionic and polymeric surfactants
  • Cationic emulsifiers
• THICKENING AGENTS


  1. Play an important role in the skin feel of emulsions

  2. Stabilizes the formulation

  3. Has a large impact on the viscosity and rheological properties of the formulation
• THICKENING AGENTS

  • Hydrophilic agents: Gums (Xanthan gum), Cellulose derivatives (CMC, HPMC, EC, HEC, HPC, MC), Acrylic polymers
  • Liposoluble agents
  • Nonionic emulsifiers
• PRESERVATIVES


  Inhibit bacterial growth in the formulation and prevent microbiological deterioration
• PRESERVATIVES

  • Parabens
  • Methylisothiazolinone
• If the formulation contains water


  We add preservatives
• A combination of methyl and propylparaben is commonly used with a ratio of 1:10
• ANTIOXIDANTS


  Prevent oxidation of sensitive components and thus rancidity
• ANTIOXIDANTS

  • BHT
  • BHA
• Moisturizers are oil-soluble and are subjected to rancidification and oxidation thus we add antioxidants
• FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS

  • Natural additives: Fruit and vegetable extracts
  • Vitamins: E, A, Panthenol
  • Peptides and Proteins: Collagen, Hyaluronic acids, Milk proteins
• FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS

  • Vitamins E, A, Panthenol
• AHA and B-glucans are anti-aging agents
• Pros of additional extracts: added value to the product (i.e.: moisturizing, skin rejuvenating)
• Cons of additional extracts: culprit of high allergic index especially herbal extracts. These herbal extracts are a combination of different active ingredients from different plants. This makes it hard to determine which specific activity causes the allergy
• If an extract is added in the formulation, remember to add the scientific name
• Fragrances improve the overall aesthetic qualities of moisturizer products
• For moisturizers, usually its soft colors
• Consumer acceptance and aesthetic purpose: Pearlescent pigments, soft-feeling agents, opacifying agents (titanium dioxide, glycol stearate)
• In moisturizers, we don’t add much fragrance because it adds to the allergic index
• Due to the high presence of water, the formulation is an O/W emulsion
• Glycerin should be in the oil phase, Glycerol shou
• Ingredients

  • Carbomer
  • Glycerin
  • Methylparaben
  • Stearic acid
  • Cetyl alcohol
  • Mineral oil
  • Propylparaben
  • Triethanolamine
• The formulation is an O/W emulsion due to the high presence of water