Anti aging

• Intrinsic Aging

  1. Due to normal process

  2. Telomere acts to protect the DNA

  3. Cell senescence results in no replication of DNA, Hormones decrease, leading to cell death

  4. Mitochondrial DNA Damage results in protein damage

  5. Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) increase, leading to radicals, inflammations, and developing diseases damaging the protein
• Extrinsic Aging

  1. Environmental factors affect the rapid process of skin aging

  2. Usually caused by UV-A

  3. Protease activity increases, TIMP activity decreases resulting in direct protein damage

  4. Amino acids (W, H, Y, F, C) result in direct protein damage
• INTRINSIC AGING

  1. A natural result of aging - chronological aging process

  2. Affects the skin on the entire body

  3. Characterized by thinning of the dermis, degeneration of the elastin network, and loss of hydration
• EXTRINSIC AGING

  1. Also called PHOTOAGING, caused by sun exposure

  2. Affects skin of the face, neck, hands, forearms

  3. Effects include coarse skin with wrinkles, hyperpigmented areas, sallowness, increased fragility, textural roughness, telangiectasia
• Effects of Extrinsic Aging
• Effects of UV Radiation on Skin

  • UVA - Responsible for skin tanning, loss of Langerhans cells in the dermis and epidermis
  • UVB - Responsible for skin burning
  • UVC - Unable to penetrate the ozone layer
• Types of radiation

  • UVA
  • UVB
  • UVC
• UVA radiation is primary responsible for skin tanning
• UVA radiation results in the loss of Langerhans cells in the dermis and epidermis
• UVB radiation is primary responsible for skin burning
• UVC radiation is unable to penetrate the ozone layer and thus does not reach the Earth’s surface
• Anti-aging ingredients

  • Invasive technologies
  • Non-invasive technologies
  • Botanical extracts
  • Antioxidants
  • Peptides and proteins
  • Retinoids
• Invasive technologies

  1. Chemical peels (e.g. Maxipeel)

  2. Topical injections of chemicals (e.g. Botulinum toxin) and various dermal fillers

  3. Dermabrasion, various laser devices, as well as corrective surgeries
• Non-invasive technologies

  1. Primary prevention

  2. Application of creams which prevent UVA

  3. Healthy lifestyle

  4. Refrain from smoking, pollution

  5. Using sunscreens

  6. Topical cosmetics and drug products applied directly to the skin

  7. Microdermabrasion (on the stratum corneum)
• Botanical extracts


  1. Bioactive ingredients in anti-aging products

  2. May be in powder or liquid form

  3. Amount is very minimal
• Effects of botanical extracts

  • Antioxidant: Coffee, Pomegranate
  • Photoprotection: Black Tea, Olive
  • Smoothing, Calming, Anti-inflammatory: Chamomile and Various mushrooms
  • Skin Lightening: Blueberry, Ginseng
  • Skin tightening: Peppermint, Witch Hazel
  • Emollient Effect: Jojoba, Coconut Extract
• Types of potent anti-aging ingredients

  • Echinacea purpurea
  • Stevia rebaudiana
  • Rosa damascena
  • Phyllanthus emblica
  • Morus alba
• Antioxidants protect the cells from damage by neutralizing the free radicals
• Examples of antioxidants


  • Vitamin C, vitamin B3, and vitamin E
  • Botanical extracts (green tea and grape seed extract)
  • Resveratrol, lipoic acid, ferulic acid, and coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone
• Antioxidants stimulate collagen production, preserve hyaluronic acid levels in the skin, and also exert anti-inflammatory effects
• Peptides and proteins


  1. Topical formulations & injectable products

  2. Anti-inflammatory, wrinkle reduction by stimulating collagen production, thickening the skin and firming it; smoothing; moisturization; and skin protective effects
• Retinoids

  1. Work at the molecular level through receptors in the skin cells

  2. Lipophilic molecules that can penetrate the epidermis and enter the dermis

  3. Improvement of surface roughness, improvement of age spots, and reduction of fine lines by decreasing the amount of collagen breakdown and stimulating the production of new collagen
• Retinoic acid


  Originally intended for acne treatment
• Retinoic acid can irritate the skin & cause photosensitization
• Topical retinol derivatives

  • Retinyl esters
  • Retinol
  • Retinaldehyde
  • Oxiretinoids
• Hydroacids

  • Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
  • Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs)
  • Poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs)
  • Bionic acids (BAs)
  • Aromatic hydroxy acids (AMAs)
• Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) examples

  • Lactic Acid
  • Glycolic Acid
  • Malic Acid
  • Tartaric Acid
  • Citric Acid
• Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) examples


  • Beta-Hydroxybutonic Acid
• Poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs) examples

  • Gluconolactone
• Bionic acids (BAs) examples

  • Lactobionic Acid
• Aromatic hydroxy acids (AMAs) examples


  • Salicylic Acid
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) vs Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA)


  Characteristics comparison
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)


  • Water-loving
  • Dissolves & exfoliates surface dead skin cells
  • Makes the skin sensitive to the sun
  • Humectant/hydrating benefits
  • Stimulates collagen
• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA)

  • Oil-loving
  • Penetrates into the pore dissolving dead skin cells, blackheads, sebum etc.
  • Does not make the skin sensitive to the sun
  • Anti-inflammatory & antibacterial
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) benefits

  • Restoring moisture & plumpness
  • Revitalizing dull skin tones
  • Reducing fine lines
  • Help fade hyperpigmentation
  • Evening skin tone & texture
• Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) benefits

  • Acne, clogged pores, whiteheads, blackheads & rosacea
  • Keep pores clear to help them appear smaller
  • Treating milia & ingrown hairs
• Chemical Peeling

  1. Superficial peels reach the epidermis only

  2. Medium-depth peels damage entire epidermis and upper dermis

  3. Deep peels wound the mid-dermis, cause protein coagulation, and complete peeling of epidermis with restructuring of basal layer and restoration of dermis
• Delivery Systems

  1. Liposomes are microscopic spherical vesicles with a lipid bilayer structure

  2. Act as skin moisturizer

  3. Shorten the shelf-life of formulations
• Studies show that liposomes are rigid and cannot deeply penetrate the skin
• Liposomes

  • Hydrophilic head, hydrophobic tail
  • Delivers the active ingredient present in the anti-aging formulations
  • Aid to deliver and improve the effectivity of the formulation
  • Formulation is usually in an emulsion form which is why delivery systems are used
  • Similar to micelles, but micelles are unicellular while liposomes have a bilayer