COSME LEC

• Cosmetics industry

  • Experienced significant changes in the past five years
  • Marketing has evolved
  • The consumer has become more knowledgeable and demanding
  • Cosmetics have become more sophisticated and innovative
• Technological advances

  • Allowed for the creation of multifunctional products that perform more than their basic role
  • Foundations with high sun protection factor (SPF) protect from ultraviolet (UV) rays
  • Lipsticks moisturize
  • Mascaras lengthen, curve, and thicken

  
• Color cosmetics

  • The biggest performance development has been the creation of "stay-on" products, which are long lasting
  • These products first appeared in the foundations category, then transferred across product categories to include lipsticks, eye shadows, mascaras, and nail enamel

  
• Makeup products


  • Contribute in a significant way to the general health and well-being of women
  • Provide psychological stimulation to satisfy personal desires for self-improvement, self adornment, and good grooming for one's own sense of well-being and for the general attention or attraction of others

  
• Pigments used in current makeup applications

  • Organic pigments
  • Mineral pigments
  • Nacrous pigments

  
• Surface properties of pigments

  • Differ with the size and the shape of the pigment particles as produced by the various manufacturing methods
  • Closely related to surface properties, and can be classified into hydrophilic and lipophilic
• Generally, pigments and substrates used (mica, talc, sericite, borum nitride, etc.) for makeup cosmetics are hydrophilic

  
• Surface properties of powders can be changed

  1. From hydrophilic to hydrophobic with several coatings

  2. Depending upon the final products' function
• Processes by which pigments may be surface treated

  • Electron-charge reactions
  • Mechanochemical processes
  • Chemical interactions
  • Mechanical processes
• Surface treatments

  • Impart easier dispersibility, better stability, and flocculation resistance to pigments

  
• Hydrophobic pigments

  • Treated inorganic colors
  • DC colors
  • Nylon
  • Titanium dioxide
  • Talc
  • Kaolin
  • Mica, and other minerals
• Hydrophobic pigments and products made with them

  • Show water-resistant properties
  • Improved skin adhesion
  • Improved color consistency
  • Better smooth skin feel than when uncoated materials were used in the same formulations

  
• Lipstick components

  • Waxes (20%)
  • Oils (40-50%)
  • Colouring agents (2-10%)
  • Additives (sun filters, antioxidizers, vitamins, moisturizing agents, ceramides)
  • Fragrance (<1%)

  
• Standard lipstick manufacture

  1. Mixing waxes, oils and extenders at high temperature

  2. Producing a concentrated dispersion of pigment

  3. Adding the colored paste at high temperature with the rest of the formula

  4. Molding the colored paste

  
• Very glossy lipstick

  • Level of the waxy phase goes up to about 80%
  • Ratio of oil to wax is higher
  • Rate of pigments is weaker (0-5%)

  
• Matte lipsticks

  • Use talcs, some nylon powder, silica or polymethylmethacrylate
  • Give a powdered, slippery, and very soft touch

  
• Nail enamel constituents

  • Lacquer
  • Agent for adhesion and gloss
  • Solvents
  • Plasticizers
  • Pigments
  • Thixotropic agents
• Lacquer


  Heart of the nail enamel formula, which may be defined as a coating that hardens and dries by evaporation of the solvent
• Foundations

  • Unify the color of the skin
  • Improve a dull and tired complexion
  • Give a matte finish
  • Mask possible imperfections like dark spots, small wrinkles, dark rings under the eyes, and the pores of the skin surface

  
• Ingredients in foundations

  • Ceramides, used to strengthen the skin barrier
  • Moisturizing agents like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, vegetable oils, which improve the hydration and flexibility of the skin
  • Free radical scavengers (vitamin E) as well as UV filters (UVA-UVB) giving makeup products a sun protection index (SPF 5-30)
  • Firming complexes to tone up and restructure the skin