tle

• TLE – HE – DRESSMAKING
• TLE – Grade 10
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• Published by the Department of Education
• Printed in the Philippines by ________________________
• Department of Education –Region VII Schools Division of Negros Oriental

  
• Writer: Judee L. Cabilin
• This module was designed and written with you in mind. It is here to help you master the nature of Dressmaking. The scope of this module permits it to be used in many different learning situations. The language used recognizes the diverse vocabulary level of students.
• The lessons are arranged to follow the standard sequence of the course. But the order in which you read them can be changed to correspond with the textbook you are now using.
• The module covers one lesson: Lesson 1 Produce Ladies Trousers
• MELC LO 3. Assemble garment parts for ladies trouser
• After going through this module, you are expected to: 1. Know the key points in preparing the cut parts of the ladies' trousers; 2. Present Pinning in the cut parts of the trousers with Continental side pocket; and 3. Press the cut parts of the trousers in accordance with the trousers style.
• Why do we need to put the pins along the grain line of the fabric?
• Guess the word based on the given definition in each number.
• Key points in preparing cut parts of the trousers

  • Use both hands to anchor work flat on the table
  • Separate the big units with the small units
  • Place the cloth parts flat on the table
  • Label the units to avoid confusion when sewing
  • To get easily the garment parts to be sewed first, place it at the right side of the sewing machine table
• You have come to the final stage in assembling the garment parts for ladies' trousers. There are standard procedures on how to assemble the parts systematically, but nowadays, dressmakers or sewers have their own standard and own technique in assembling and sewing the garment parts according to their own convenience.
• In pinning the fabric to be seam, place the pins in a perpendicular manner to the edge of the fabric, to any kinds of seam preparatory to basting or stitching like; a. To the edge of the dart, b. To the pleats c. To the tuck or hem d. To the seams fitted wrong side out side

  
• Through this way the two layers of cloth stitched together are kept smoothly and pins can be removed easily. Usually, the stitch will pucker unevenly if pins are placed parallel to the edges and baste or stitch over the pins in straight line.
• Pins can be place parallel to seams when fitting to the wrong side out and to circumference seams not turned under during the first fitting in order to establish a new line during fitting and cutting.
• Baste darts, out seams, and inseams, in that order. Put one leg inside the other, right sides of fabric facing, to baste the crotch seam. Do not baste through the seam allowances at the crossing of the inseam and crotch seams. Pin the fitting band to the inside of the garment with the lower edge of the band on the stay stitching. Match the markings on the band to the garment at the center front, center back, and out seams. Place pins on the garment side.
• Check the grainlines, ease, balance, and the position of all seams when fitting the garment. Remember, drag lines point to the source of the trouble. Start at the seven- inch grainline first and fit the front, then the back. The crosswise grainline at the seven-inch hipline must be kept parallel to the floor. The creases in each leg must be perpendicular to the floor. Pants have four centers, whereas skirts only have two. Adjust the darts before fitting the out seams. The darts may be shifted to the area where they are needed. Mini-darts, about two inches long, may be used between the large darts and the side seams. A slight garment bias in the center back seam is acceptable. Sometimes it is impossible to match plaids at the inseams. Just remember these are the least noticeable seams in the garment. Pants may be tapered in the fabric. Indicate the amount tapered on the pattern.

  
• Pressing is one of the important factors in all stages of sewing in order to give shape and set a stitching line. Steam iron and ironing board are essential for this stage. The fabric should be free from creases, folds, and wrinkles before sewing. If the lengthwise crease interfered with the placing of the lengthwise and crosswise thread in doing the proper positioning, then it must be removed. Nobody can construct a garment perfectly if the fabric or material is not smooth and free from creases and wrinkles.
• What you will need: 1. An ironing board 2. An iron 3. A bristle brush with a backing/handle that is flat, wooden and unvarnished. Select an iron temperature and settings consistent with the pant fabric. Steam works for most fibers, test on a small hidden area such as the pocket bag or waistband inside before pressing the entire pant. Some fabrics may require the use of a press cloth to prevent shine when pressing on the right side. Press on a long flat surface, preferably a padded ironing board. The crosswise or woof filling of thread must be checked for their right angle to the lengthwise or warp threads and never press the materials with diagonal direction of fabric grain.
• If you worry about shine what you can do is use a piece of thin cloth over the top of your trousers before pressing. Be sure to use a cloth that does not leave bits of fluff.
• Perform a pinning of dart by presenting a pictures of how you pinned the dart before it is finally stitch using the correct process.

  
• I have learned that
• Pressing


  Using a piece of thin cloth over the top of your trousers before pressing to avoid leaving bits of fluff
• Pinning a dart


  Present pictures of how you pinned the dart before it is finally stitched using the correct process

  
• Resources needed


  • Ruler
  • Tape measure
  • Scissors/shears
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Sewing machine
• Supplies


  • Bond paper
  • Pencil/eraser
  • Thread
  • Scrap of cloth 7"x 5"
• Scoring rubrics for pinning an open-ended dart

  • Darts is not pinned properly (5 points)
  • Darts is pinned properly (10 points)

  
• Making an open-ended dart

  1. Create a dart using 1.5 inches width & 5 inches length

  2. Create a notch on the dart's width

  3. Sew the open-ended dart with a slight concave curve

  4. Tie threads after trailing off the edge of the fold

  5. Press the dart properly

  6. Paste it on a long bond paper

  
• Scoring rubrics for making an open-ended dart

  • Did not try (2 points)
  • Not yet (4 points)
  • Good (6 points)
  • Very good (8 points)
  • Excellent (10 points)

  
• Check the grainlines, ease, balance, and the position of all seams when fitting the garment
• Press on a long flat surface, preferably a padded ironing board
• Pressing is one of the important factors at all stages of sewing in order to shape and set a stitching line
• The fabric should be free from creases, folds and wrinkles before starting to sew
• In pinning the fabric to be seamed, place the pins in a perpendicular manner
• Usually, the stitch will not pucker unevenly if pins are placed perpendicular to the edges