Chapter 5. Dressmaking

• Dressmaking


  The art of sewing clothes and dresses like sewing a beautiful form a fabric
• Dressmaking tools, materials and equipment

  • Measuring tools
  • Drafting tools
  • Cutting tools
  • Marking tools
  • Sewing aids
• Measuring tools


  • Measuring tape
  • Sewing gauge
  • Ruler
  • Meter stick or yard stick
• Drafting tools


  • L-square
  • Hip curve
  • French curve
• Cutting tools


  • Shears (cutting, pinking, scalloping)
  • Scissors
  • Buttonhole scissors
  • Embroidery scissors
  • Seam ripper
• Marking tools


  • Tailor's chalk
  • Tracing wheel
  • Dressmaker's carbon paper
• Sewing aids


  • Pins
  • Pin cushion
  • Hand needles
  • Thimble
  • Threader
• Body measurements for men and women apparels

  • Shoulder/Shoulder width
  • Figure
  • Bust
  • Bust distance
  • Bust height
  • Waist
  • Hip 1 circumference
  • Hip 2 circumference
  • Length of shirt
  • Armhole
  • Length of sleeve
  • Short sleeve circumference/Arm girth
• Points to remember in taking body measurements

  • Request client to stand straight
  • Use soft flexible tape measure
  • Tie string around waistline
  • Measure vertically or horizontally
  • Allow tape to hang freely for accurate length measurements
• An example format for the Personal Measurement Record (PMR) of a client is provided
• Elements of design in fashion

  • Line (outline, style line)
  • Form/Shape (silhouette, common shapes)
• The function of silhouette is to complement the shape of the body
• Shape of the face is one factor considered in choosing the neckline of a dress
• Horizontal stripes


  Make a slim figured-lady look bigger
• Finer stripes


  Make a chubby lady look slimmer
• Vertical lines


  Emphasize the height of the individual
• Horizontal lines


  Give impression of a lighter or heavier figure
• Silhouette


  The most obvious visual element of a garment, refers to the shape and structure or the entire outline of the garment
• Common shapes seen in fashion design

  • Round
  • Square
  • Triangle
  • Rectangle
  • Oblong
• Oval-shaped face


  All kinds of necklines are fit
• Square-shaped face and long narrow triangle-shaped face

  Appropriate for U-necklines

  
• Texture


  The surface quality of an item like fabric, how it feels when touched
• Rough bulky fabric tends to increase the size of a design while the smooth one decreases it
• Soft wool will give a quite different effect from the gloss and sheen of the satin of an evening dress
• Color


  The most important element of design, it attracts the attention of people and has an enormous effect on how one feels
• Black, dark tones or deep-gray colors


  The figure will appear smaller or slimmer than bright or light colors
• Plain color


  Makes the figure look slimmer than using a combination of contrasting colors
• Large designs in prints, plaids, or stripes


  Not advisable for one with a very small or slim figure
• Proportion


  The relationship of one part of the design to the whole design, the feeling of unity when all parts relate well with one another
• Symmetrical balance


  When the outfit is divided right down at the middle with both sides exactly the same
• Asymmetrical balance


  The opposite of symmetrical balance, the outfit is divided right down the middle and both sides are not the same
• Harmony


  The unity of all the principles, the overall look of a garment which creates a sense of completeness
• Emphasis


  The center of interest of a garment, the prominent element that stands out and grabs attention
• Types of rhythm


  • Repetition
  • Progression
  • Transition
  • Radiation
  • Continuous line movement
• Petite lady should choose garments which are proportionate to her weight and height, avoid loose garments
• Woman with broad shoulders should not wear garments that would emphasize her shoulder, heavy embroidered dress will make her appear heavier
• Dressmaker should avoid loose or hanging accessories, tie long hair securely, and wear closed shoes
• Safety Operating Procedure in Using the Sewing Machine

  1. Permission to use the sewing machine must be given by the teacher

  2. Use of machine should be prohibited if you have no proper training and instruction on its safe use and operation

  3. Has read and understood the instruction sheet with complete safety test with 100% score

  4. Before working with the sewing machine, check all parts specially its cord in good working condition

  5. Adjustments and settings must be in placed before starting any sewing operation

  6. Clean the workplace, free of obstacles, rubbish and other similar obstruction
• The machine must be operated by one person only at a time, loose clothing should not be worn while sewing, power should be switched off when changing presser foot and needle, and making some machine adjustments