(2)

• Never try to unreel wire rope from a stationary reel

  
• Mounting the reel


  Mount the reel on a pipe or rod supported by two uprights
• Spooling wire rope under the reel

  Start at the right and work toward the left. Handle left-laid wire rope just the opposite

  
• Running wire rope off one reel to another

  Run it from top to top or from bottom to bottom

  
• Making up short lengths of wire rope

  Make up in coils and stop off tightly for stowage

  
• Uncoiling wire rope


  Stand the coil on edge and roll along the deck, uncoiling as you go
• Dealing with a kinked wire rope


  Never try to pull it out by putting a strain on either part. Uncross the ends by pushing them apart

  
• If a heavy strain is put on a wire rope with a kink in it, the rope no longer can be trusted
• Dealing with a kinked wire rope

  Cut out the kinked part and splice the ends together

  
• Wire rope should be inspected frequently, checking for fishhooks, kinks, and worn and corroded spots

  
• Worn spots show up as shiny flattened surfaces
• One or more of the following conditions is sufficient to determine that a wire rope should be discarded

  
• Wire rope should not be stored in places where acid is or has been kept
• Stress the importance of keeping acid or acid fumes away from wire rope to all hands at all times
• If the lubricant film is applied properly and the wire is stored in a dry place, corrosion will be virtually eliminated
• Seizing

  The process of securing one rope to another, two or more parts of the same rope to itself, or fittings of any kind to a rope by binding with small stuff or with annealed iron wire

  
• Using wire-rope clips


  The U-bolt always goes over the bitter end and the roddle goes on the standing part. Space the clips at a distance apart equal to six times the diameter of the wire. After the rope is under strain, tighten the clips again as a safety measure

  
• The clips must be rechecked periodically thereafter and retightened as needed
• Pay particular attention to the wire at the clip farthest from the eye because vibration and whipping are dampened here and fatigue breaks are likely to occur
• Classes of knots


  • Knots in the end of line, used in fastening a line upon itself or around an object
  • Knots for bending two lines together
  • Knots that secure a line to a ring or spar (hitches or bends)
  • Knots used to give finished to the end of a line and to prevent unreeling or for ornamental purposes
• Class 1 knots - Knots in the end of a single line

  • Overhead Knot
  • Bowline
  • Running bowline
  • Bowline on a bight
  • French Bowline
  • Spanish bowline
  • Sheepshank
  • Cats Paw
  • Figure Eight
  • Black Wall Hitch
• Class II knots - Knots for bending or joining two lines together


  • Square of reef knot
  • Granny knot
  • Sheet or becket bend (single)
  • Sheet or becket bend (double)
  • Two bowlines
  • Carrick Bend
  • Reeving line bend
• Class III knots - Knots for securing a line to a ring or spar


  • Fisherman's Bend
  • Tolling hitch
  • Round Turn and Two Half Hitches
  • Clove or Ratline Hitch
  • Half hitch or two half hitch
  • Stopper hitch
  • Cats paw
• Class IV knots - Knots worked in the end of a line

  • Wall knot
  • Crown knot
  • Manrope
  • Mathew Walker
• Tying Two Half Hitches

  1. Pass end of rope around post or other object

  2. Wrap short end of rope under and over long part of rope, pushing the end down through the loop. This is a half hitch

  3. Repeat on long rope below first half hitch and draw up tight

  
• Tying Bowline


  1. Make the overhand loop with the end held toward you, then pass end through loop

  2. Now pass end up behind the standing part, then down through the loop again

  3. Draw up tight
• Tying Figure Eight


  1. Make underhand loop, bringing end around and over the standing part

  2. Pass end under, then up through the loop

  3. Draw up tight
• Tying Square Knot


  1. Pass left and over and under right end. Curve what is now the left end toward the right and cross what is now the right end over and under the left

  2. Draw up tight
• Tying Anchor Bend

  1. Pass two loops through ring

  2. Place free end around standing line

  3. Pass free end through loops

  4. Complete by making half hitch
• Tying Clove Hitch


  1. Make a turn with the rope around the object and over itself

  2. Take a second turn with the rope around the object

  3. Pull the end up under the second turn so it is between the rope and the object. Tighten by pulling on both ends

  
• In general, rigging is a large part of deck seamanship
• Ground tackle


  • Anchor chain, wire rope, synthetic line, or combinations of these materials, when used with anchors
  • Appendages consisting of connecting shackles or links, detachable links, pear-shaped links, end links, bending shackles, mooring shackles, mooring swivels, detachable-link tool sets, clear hawse pendants, dip ropes, chain stoppers, wrenches for chain stoppers, outboard swivel shots, chain cable jacks, mooring hooks, chain hooks, anchor bars, and anchor buoys

  
• All anchors are designed to take hold as quickly as possible after they hit bottom
• Anchors take hold either by hooking into the ground with one or both of their sharp flukes or by burying themselves completely
• When an anchor is let go in fairly deep water, it strikes the bottom crown first
• From the crown position, any drag on the chain causes the flukes, if properly set, to dig into the bottom
• As the drag continues, the fluke is forced further into the bottom
• Types of anchors used in the Navy


  • Stockless anchors
  • Lightweight (LWT) or stock-incrown anchors
  • Two-fluke balanced-fluke anchors
  • Stock anchors (old-fashioned)
  • Mushroom anchors

  
• Stockless anchors


  • Commercial type has the least holding power
  • Standard Navy type
  • Mark 2 (Mk 2) type has the greatest holding power

  
• Lightweight anchors


  • Constructed of comparatively light metal, but are very strong in tension
  • Gain their holding power by digging deep into the bottom rather than lying as a deadweight