What makes our Coastline so Dynamic, shaping the coastline through erosion and deposition
Crest
The point at the top of the wave
Trough
The base of the wave
Wave height
The distance between the trough and the crest
Wavelength
The distance between two crests
Wave frequency
How many times the waves break in a minute
Swash
A wave's running up the beach
Backwash
A wave's returning to the Sea due to gravity
Factors affecting wave size
Wind speed
Time the wind has been blowing
Fetch (distance the wind has blown over)
Wave motion
1. In deep water, molecules move in circular motion
2. As waves travel towards beach, molecules move in elliptical motion
3. Wave height increases as waves slow down due to friction from beach
4. Top of wave travels faster as bottom experiences drag from seabed, causing wave to break
Constructive waves
Weak backwash compared to swash, long wavelength but low wave height, less frequent but gentle waves, break gently and spread out, found in sheltered bays, build up sandy beaches, more common in summer
Destructive waves
Strong backwash compared to swash, short wavelength but high wave height, more frequent with high energy concentrated in small area, found in exposed areas, remove material from beach, more common in winter
