Textiles: Unit 1

• Textile production


  Relates to raw materials, the fibres, yarns and fabrics produced by a particular culture
• Textile art forms


  The artistic or creative expression of ideas and thoughts through a textile medium
• Textile art forms are often unique to a culture, as they are generally influenced by the geographical location, technological development, resources available, religious practices, worker's skills and status of that culture
• Textile art forms are valued for a variety of qualities, including the technical skills required to produce the item, richness and colour of the design, the tactile properties and the end use of the item
• Japan is one of the only Eastern countries to achieve a high level of industrialisation and still retain its traditional textile customs and skills
• Fibres found in Japanese textile production


  • Hemp
  • Ramie
  • Cotton
  • Silk
• Hemp


  The first fibre cultivated in Japan, used for everyday clothing, curtains, mosquito nets, robes of priests and ceremonial dress of the samurai
• Ramie


  A good conductor of heat, suitable for the hot, humid Japanese summers, but found to be scratchy, cold and uncomfortable
• Cotton


  Became the dominant fibre in Japan in the 16th century, worn as a status symbol by the upper classes
• Silk


  The only animal fibre used in traditional Japanese textiles, taken from the cocoons of wild silk worms and later produced through sericulture
• Silk was worn by nobles and priests, while commoners were prohibited from wearing fine silk and could only wear spun silk floss yarn called tsumugi or pongee
• Silk was the main export revenue for Japan for centuries
• Economic factors


  Japan's rapid recovery from WWII, labour shortages, increasing prices and wages leading to greater affluence, shift from textile exports to other manufactured goods
• Political factors


  Japan's constitution based on popular sovereignty, respect for human rights, and advocacy of peace
• Social factors


  Complex social hierarchy in Tokugawa period, with samurai at the top, followed by farmers, artisans and merchants, challenged during Meiji period, social classes abolished after WWII
• Ecological factors


  Environmental movement smaller and shorter history in Japan, progress in environmental technology, efforts to reduce energy consumption and encourage renewable energy
• Japan is an island chain in the East Asian region, with long, rocky coastlines and a mountainous landscape with little land available for agriculture
• The climate in Japan is variable, with cotton kimonos worn in summer and layered clothing in winter to reflect the seasons
• Technological development


  Early hand-made textiles from hemp, ramie and wisteria, silk production from 2nd century, cotton industry growth from 19th century, industrialisation and modernisation after WWII
• Japan has very few natural resources, relying on imports of raw materials like cotton and wool, with a strong focus on manufacturing processes
• Religious practices


  Shinto religion based on nature worship, belief in prolonging life of textiles, Buddhist religion encouraging ornate dress and art
• Workers' skills and status


  Social hierarchy with low status for artisans and craftsmen in feudal times, decline of craftsmen with industrialisation, now seen as living national treasures, education system providing equal opportunities
• Japanese textiles reflect the beliefs and values of the culture, with unique designs using motifs of landscapes, flowers, characters, shapes and animals that convey symbolic meanings
• Symbolic animals in Japanese textiles


  • Cranes (longevity)
  • Mandarin ducks (marital commitment)
  • Tortoise (longevity)
  • Koi carp (luck, prosperity, good fortune)
• Colours in Japanese textiles


  Associated with specific meanings and feelings rather than just intensity, e.g. blue/green (colour of the ocean)
• Butterflies-Choho'


  The Japanese perceive the butterfly to be a 'soul of the living and the dead', as a result of the popular belief that spirits of the dead take the form of a butterfly when on their journey to the other world and eternal life. The butterfly is often used as a symbol for young girls as they spread their wings and emerge into womanhood, and are also believed to symbolise joy and longevity. If a symbol contains two butterflies dancing around each other, it is a symbol of marital happiness.
• Koi Carp


  Carp in Japanese. This fish is a symbol of perseverance, due to the fish's tendency to swim upstream and resist the flow of water. They also symbolise faithfulness and marriage. A design of carp swimming against rapids symbolises the Children's Day Festival on May 5, This is to inspire children to work hard in order to succeed.
• Cranes - 'Tsuru'


  Cranes represent good fortune and longevily, as a result of Japanese folklore believing that the crane lives for 1,000 years. The crane is also closely associated with Japanese New Year and wedding ceremonies, due to cranes being monogamous. Because of this, the image of a crane is sometimes even woven into wedding kimonos. The crane is often produced in origami and artwork. Large colourful necklaces of cranes are commonly seen outside of Japanese temples.
• Frogs - 'Kaeru'


  There are many species of frogs in Japan, due to flooding rice fields in Japanese agriculture. These creatures are often used in poetry and art, and are sometimes carried by travellers to make sure they retum home safely from their journeys. The word frog in Japanese means 'return', which is why the frog is seen as good fortune in things returning.
• Turtles - "Kame


  The Japanese believe that the turtle is a symbol for wisdom, luck, protection, and longevity; longevity due to their long lifespan and slow movements. The turtle is magic and unites heaven and earth, with its shell representing heaven and its square underside representing earth.
• Dragon - 'Tatsu'


  Although a mythical creature, the dragon is an important part of Japanese culture. It is a symbol of great power, wisdom, and success, and is said to bring strength, luck and fortune. The Japanese dragon is similar to the Chinese dragon, but is more serpentine in its shape. The Chinese dragon differs in that it is largely associated with rain, due to drought disasters that China experiences. However, due to Japan being less susceptible to drought, the Japanese dragon is associated more with the sea.
• Raccoon Dog - 'Tanuki'


  A subspecies of the Asian Raccoon Dog, this animal has had significance in Japanese Folklore since ancient times. The raccoon dog is known to be mischievous and jolly, as well as a master of disguise with traits that are thought to bring good fortune. It is a common theme in Japanese art.
• Lions-'Komainu


  The lion traditionally symbolises power, strength, and protection. Statues guarding the entrances to shrines or temples are often a pair of lions. These are often referred to as 'llon dogs', and are believed to warn off any evil spirits.
• Cats 'Maneki Neko '


  The lucky cat is often represented in talismans, and are thought to bring luck, happiness, wealth, and prosperity. These lucky cats are identified through their raised right paw.
• Textiles can communicate different meanings to different people. Traditionally in ancient Japanese culture, apparel items signified the status of the individual. For common people, clothing was usually made of linen or hemp: upper classes wore silk. Silk is clearly a fibre indicative of higher ranks due to its lustrous appearance and expense. Clothing has varied in style and design throughout Japan's history, but the general idea was always that the more elaborate, luxurious, expensive and layered the costume, the higher the ranks and status of the family or clan.
• Woven patterns, dyed clothing and repetitive patterns are considered 'informal designs' on Japanese clothing, so they are used on the cotton yukata, woven haori and dyed ikat kimono. These types of Japanese clothing would be used as daily wear, for bath houses or for
• Traditional Japanese clothing is also worn on the basis of age and marital status. For women in particular, traditional Japanese clothing is not only worn based on the person's age but is also determined by their marital status. Young, unmarried women wear kimono with long sleeves that are very vibrant, colourful and rich with patterns. Married women or older women would wear simpler, more subdues colours and clothes.
• The male kimono is traditionally monotone in colour and the style depends on the time, place and occasion when it is to be worn. Male dress consists of a haori, which is printed with the family crest, and hakama pants, which are usually black with grey stripes. Males traditionally wore kimonos as daily attire, but today they wear kimonos on special occasions only, such as weddings.
• The style of the kimono with long wide sleeves indicates a single female seeking a partner
• Men's obl are narrow, up to approximately 10cm wide, while women's formal obi can be three times as wide and more than 4 metres long. There are many types of obl. The fanciest and most colourful are for young unmarried women. A fine formal obi might cost more than the rest of the entire outfit. Obi are categorised by their design, formality, material, and use. Informal women's obi are narrower and shorter than formal obi.