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145 LE 3
Fragrance, Flavoring, and Food Additives
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Perfume is from the Latin word
perfumare
which means to fill with smoke since in its original form it was incense burned in
Egyptian
temples.
General Use: To increase general appeal
Cosmetics
Industry
Soaps
and
Detergent
Neutralizing
Leather
Goods
and
Papers
Summary of Changes Throughout the Years
Increase in number of
Available Raw Materials
New Type of Products
Innovation of
Packaging
Introduction of
Synthetics
Improved
methods
in
extraction
Constituents:
Vehicles
- used for
blending
and
holding
perfume materials
Example: Highly Refined Ethyl Alcohol
2.
Fixatives
- substances of
lower
volatility than the perfume oils
Example:
Animal
Fixatives,
Resinous
Fixatives,
Essential Oil
,
Synthetic
3.
Odorous
Substances - most odorous substances used in perfumery to
diffuse
odor
Essential
oils,
Isolates
,
Synthetic
and
semisynthetic
chemicals
Vehicles:
Highly Refined Ethyl Alcohol
Due to its
volatile
nature, it helps
protect
the scent it carries and is fairly inert to the solutes.
Process of adding vehicles
Deodorizing of Vehicle also called the "
Prefixation
" process by adding
gum
benzoin or
resinous fixatives
Maturing for
1-2 weeks
Animal Fixative
Derived from animal secretions.
Example: Musk from Male Musk Deer due to the color called muskone
Resinous Fixatives
Derived from certain plants
tincure
- if solution is carried out in the cold
infusion
- if the solution requires heat
Example: Labdanum from leaves growing in the Mediterranean area
Essential-Oil Fixatives
an essential oil derived in a blend can play the role of a fixative while contributing to the overall scent impression
Example: Clary sage, vetiver, orris, and sandalwood with higher boiling points than normal. (285 to 290 deg C)
Synthetic Fixatives
to replace some imported animal fixatives
Example: Musk ketone, vanillin, amyl benzoate, indole, benzyl benzoate, skatole
Odorous Substances
Essential Oils
- defined as volatile, odoriferous oils of vegetable origin
"
Essential
" does not mean "most necessary" but rather "
concentrated
characteristics or quintessence of a natural flavor or fragrant raw material
Insoluble
in water and
soluble
in organic solvents
Vary from colorless to
yellow
or
brown
in color
Compound found in essential oils are esters, alcohols, aldehydes, acids, phenols, ketones, esters, lactones, terpenes, hydrocarbons
Steam Distillation
Low
efficiency due to contamination of
pyrolysis
products
Some
oils
are greatly affected by
temperature
View source
Expression
May produce
identical
to hand-pressed product
Sponge process
is the most important hand-pressed processes since it yields highest-quality oil
View source
Enfleurage
Also called
cold-fat extraction
process used to process few types of delicate flowers such as jasmine and tuberose which yield no oil in distillation
View source
Extraction with volatile solvents
The most important factor is the selection of solvent
The solvent must be
selective
The solvent must have a
low
boiling point
The solvent must be chemically
inert
to the oil
The solvent must
evaporate
without leaving odorous residue
The solvent must be
low-priced
and
nonflammable
Most successful is highly purified
petroleum
ether, next is
benzene
View source
Isolates
:
Pure chemical compound whose source is an essential oil or other perfume material
Example:
eugenol
from clove oil and
anethole
from anise oil
Synthetics
and
Semisynthetics
:
Defined as constituents that are chemically synthesized from an isolate or other natural starting materials and are classed as
semisynthetics.
Examples:
Vanillin
prepared from eugenol from clove oil and
Ionone
from citral from lemon grass oil
CONDENSATION
PROCESSES
Examples: Cinnamic aldehyde (has
cinnamon
odor)
ESTERIFICATION
PROCESSES
Examples: Benzyl benzoate aldehyde (used as
fixative
and flavoring material)
GRIGNARD
PROCESSES
Examples: Phenylethyl alcohol (
rose-like
odor occurs in volatile oils of rose and orange flowers)
HYDROGENATION
Examples: Citronellal from citronellol (
lemon
aroma)
NITRATION
PROCESSES
Examples: Artificial musks (derived its odor from macrocyclic compounds as fixative and flavoring material)
Three important commercial artificial musk
Musk
Ambrette
Musk
Xylene
Musk
Ketone
OXIDATION PROCESSES
Examples: Vanillin from lignin (most used as a flavor in perfumery and for deodorizing manufactured goods.)
MISCELLANEOUS
PROCESSES
Examples: Menthol from Japanese peppermint (used in cigarettes as an antiseptic cooling flavor)
Stages of Fragrance
Parfum – Concentration of perfume oils –
20-40
%
Eau de Parfum – Concentration of perfume oils – 15
-20%
Eau de Toilette – Concentration of perfume oils –
5-
15%
Eau de Cologne – Concentration of perfume oils –
2-5
%
Eau Fraîche – Concentration of perfume oils –
1-3
%
The popular conception of flavor involves the combination of four basic flavors:
sweet
,
sour
,
salty
, and
bitter.
Special Processes
Distillation
and
Extraction
of the Fruit
Concentration
of the Juice
Extraction
of the Juices
FLAVORING
VANILLA
From vanilla bean that grows principally in Madagascar. It is the immature fruit of the orchid Vanilla planifolia
FLAVORING
CHOCOLATE
AND
COCOA
From cacao bean, the seed of Theobroma cacao L. that grows in equatorial areas on the tree in pods.
FLAVORING
MONOSODIUM
GLUTAMATE
(MSG)
It has no flavor of its own. It only accentuates the hidden flavors of food. Monosodium salt of L-glutamic acid has a flavor-accentuating capacity.
Types of Food Additives
Intentional
Additives. Substances added in carefully controlled amounts to preserve the quality of food.
Examples: MSG, food coloring
Incidental
Additives. No function in finished food but become part of it through phase of production, processing, storage, or packaging.
Example: Pesticide
Main Classifications of Food Additives
Colors
Flavors
Enzymes
Acidulants
Nonnutritive
sweeteners
Surfactants
Antioxidants
Preservatives
Flavor
enhancers
Vitamin Supplements
(considered as natural accesory chemicals)
Nonspecialty
additives
Stages of Fragrance
Parfum
– Concentration of perfume oils – 20-40%
Eau de Parfum
– Concentration of perfume oils – 15-20%
Eau de Toilette
– Concentration of perfume oils – 5-15%
Eau de Cologne
– Concentration of perfume oils – 2-5%
Eau Fraîche
– Concentration of perfume oils – 1-3%