2.1

• waves - circular movement of water particles that causes a change in the pattern that moves along the waters surface. the pattern can move over long distances but the particles do not
• waves are caused by wind

  • wind transfers energy to surface of the water, causing the water below to rotate in a circular motion
  • energy is transferred as a wave until it reaches the shore
• water is shallow near the shore, causing the bottom of the wave to drag on the bottom until it crashes onto the shore
• crest - top of a wave
• trough - bottom of a wave
• wavelength - distance from crest to crest
• height - measurement between crest and trough
• changing the shape of the shore

  • The force of waves crashing against a shoreline can change the shape of the shore
  • Large waves erode the shore, while smaller waves can deposit sand or other materials near the shore
• tsunamis - huge waves caused by earthquakes in the ocean floor

  • Once they reach shallower waters, they can grow in height to a 15-storey building
  • happens because the water is not as deep
• • Tide: daily change in water levels of the ocean
• causes of tides

  1. rotation of earth on its axis
  2. gravitational force of the moon
• • Inertia: the resistance of any physical object to a change in its state of motion or rest
• the moon and tides

  • The moon’s influence on the world's oceans is strongest on the side of the Earth that is closest to the moon
  • As the moon rotates around the Earth, it pulls the water toward it creating a high tide
  • inertia tries to keep the water in place
• • On the opposite side if the Earth, farthest from the moon, the gravitational pull is weaker, however, inertia pulls the water away from the Earth also forming a “bulge”
• spring tides - highest high tides

  the sun and moon are in line

  
• neap tides - lowest high tides

  moon and sun are at a 90 degree angle

  
• the bay of fundy - has the highest tides in the world