Coasts

• crest


  the point at the top of a wave
• trough

  base of a wave
• wave height


  the distance between the trough and crest
• wave length 


  the distance between two wave crests
• wave frequency


  how many times the wave breaks up in a minute
• swash


  waves running up a beach
• backwash

  waves returning to the sea due to gravity
• what effects the energy in a wave?

  Wind speed

  Time wind has been blowing

  The Fetch
• constructive waves

  • long wave length and height
  • low energy/frequency
  • weak swash
  • strong backwash
• destructive waves

  • short wave length
  • steep wave front
  • high wave height
  • high energy/frequency
  • weak swash
  • strong backwash
• What processes break down and remove material from the coast?

  Erosion, mass movement, and weathering
• How is material moved along the coastline?

  By the sea and deposited during energy loss
• What are the types of weathering mentioned?

  • Freeze-thaw weathering
  • Biological weathering
  • Chemical weathering
• What happens during freeze-thaw weathering?

  Water enters cracks, freezes, expands, and widens cracks
• What role does temperature play in freeze-thaw weathering?

  Temperature drops cause water to freeze and expand
• What is the effect of biological weathering on rocks?

  Roots weaken rock structure and cause breakage
• How do plant roots contribute to weathering?

  They grow into cracks, making them larger
• What is chemical weathering and how does it occur?

  Weak acids in rainwater dissolve rocks like limestone
• Which types of rocks are affected by chemical weathering?

  Limestone and chalk
• What is the result of chemical weathering on limestone?

  Limestone can become dissolved by weak acids
• What are the main coastal processes discussed?

  • Erosion
  • Mass movement
  • Weathering
  • Transportation
  • Deposition
• What processes break down and remove material from the coast?

  Erosion, mass movement, and weathering
• How is material moved along the coastline?

  By the sea and deposited during energy loss
• What is mass movement in coastal processes?

  • Large-scale downward movement of rocks and material
  • Movement occurs due to gravity
• What are the four types of mass movement?

  Rockfall, mudflow, landslide, rotational slip
• What causes rockfall in mass movement?

  Freeze-thaw weathering
• What happens during a mudflow?

  Saturated soil flows down a slope
• How does a landslide occur?

  Large blocks of rock slide downhill
• What characterizes a rotational slip?

  Saturated soil slumps down a curved surface
• What are the key processes involved in coastal mass movement?

  • Erosion: wearing away of land
  • Mass movement: gravity-driven movement of material
  • Weathering: breakdown of rocks and minerals
• What processes break down and remove material from the coast?

  Erosion, mass movement, and weathering
• How is material moved along the coastline?

  By the sea and deposited during energy loss
• What is erosion in coastal geography?

  • Wearing away of rock along the coastline
  • Involves destructive waves
  • Four types: hydraulic action, abrasion, attrition, solution
• What characterizes destructive waves?

  They remove material from the beach
• What is the relationship between swash and backwash in destructive waves?

  Swash is weaker than backwash
• What are the four types of erosion?

  1. Hydraulic action
  2. Abrasion
  3. Attrition
  4. Solution
• What is hydraulic action?

  Power of waves smashing against cliffs
• How does hydraulic action cause erosion?

  Air trapped in cracks breaks the rock apart
• What is abrasion in coastal erosion?

  Pebbles grind along a rock platform
• What effect does abrasion have on rocks?

  It makes the rock smooth over time