Waves which help build up material on the beach. They tend to have a low frequency and strong swash.
Deposition
When material is deposited or left behind, eg when a river loses its energy and is unable to carry its load any further.
Destructive wave
Waves which remove material from the beach. The swash is weaker than the backwash.
Fetch
How far a wave has travelled.
freeze-thaw weathering
When water in rocks freezes and expands, breaking the rock apart.
longshore drift
The movement of material along a coastline due to the angled approach of waves.
mass movement
A large-scale downward movement of rocks and material.
permeable rock
A type of rock which allows water to pass through its joints and cracks, eg limestone.
porous rock
A rock with minute air spaces between the minerals.
Sediment
Small fragments of rock and soil that form layers.
Swash
The water flowing towards a beach when a wave breaks.
Abrasion
When rocks carried by the sea water wear away the landscape, eg cliff face/headland.
Arch
A natural rock formation often created by two sea caves eroding backwards towards each other until the back walls disappear.
Attrition
The wearing down of the load as the rocks and pebbles hit the sea bed and each other, breaking into smaller and more rounded pieces.
Backwash
The movement of water down the beach.
Bar
A spit that has grown across a bay.
Bay
A low-lying inlet of land on the coast.
Cave
Recess in a cliff where waves have enlarged a crack in the rock face.
constructive wave
Waves which help build up material on the beach. They tend to have a low frequency and strong swash.
Deposition
When material is deposited or left behind, eg when a river loses its energy and is unable to carry its load any further.
Erosion
The wearing away of pieces of rock, soil or other solid materials.
Headland
A high area of land that extends out into the sea.
hydraulic action
Erosion caused by the force of river water hitting cracks in the side of the river bank. The air in the cracks becomes compressed and then explodes outwards, breaking off bits of rock.
Lagoon
A shallow area of water separated from the sea by a bar or spit.
Silt
Fertile sand-sized particles found in the lower course of a river. Also known as alluvium.
Spit
A stretch of beach at one end of a coastline caused by waves depositing material.
Stack
A pillar of rock left standing in the sea when the top of an arch has collapsed.
Stump
The remains of a stack which the sea has eroded away.
Swash
The water flowing towards a beach when a wave breaks.
wave-cut notch
An area of erosion at the base of a cliff formed by the waves.
wave-cut platform
A flat area in front of a cliff, just below the low tide mark. These were formed when the waves eroded the cliff, but left a flat platform behind.
Weathering
The breaking down of rocks in situ by the action of weather, plants, animals and chemical processes.
Erosion
The wearing away of pieces of rock, soil or other solid materials.
Fetch
How far a wave has travelled.
Groyne
Wooden or rock structures built out at right angles into the sea.
hard engineering
The use of man-made structures to control the coast.
longshore drift
The movement of material along a coastline due to the angled approach of waves.
managed retreat
The controlled flooding of low-lying coastal areas.
marram grass
A long type of grass found growing on coastal sand dunes.