Coasts

• What are the anthropogenic factors affecting the coast?

  Tourists, fishing and coastal management
• What is the foreshore?

  An area between high and low tide marks / between water and developed line
• A system which only transfers energy is called a closed system
• A system which transfers both energy and matter is called an open system. Having both inputs and outputs.
• Wind direction, speed, extreme weather and wave strength are all some atmospheric factors which affect the coast
• A dynamic equilibrium is when a system self regulates.
• Negative feedback is when a system counter acts a change
• In a coast a dynamic equilibrium means the inputs into a system = the outputs of the system
• Kinetic energy, potential energy and thermal energy are three types of energy systems in a coast
• In a coast the processes is how energy / sediment is moved / stored
• Long shore drift is a process in the coast
• Kinetic energy in the waves, nearshore sediment and beaches are three examples of stores in the coast.
• In a coast an output is a land form or loss of energy, examples include bars, spits and evaporation.
• The inputs of a coast is energy and sediment, examples include kinetic energy, thermal energy and sediment
• A system is a group of related objects whether physical or human
• Buildings, geology and topography are all terrestrial factors affecting the coast.
• Standard diviation = √ sum of each data set - mean of each data set ^ 2 / number of values in the data set
• Winds can cause deflation, erosion, transportation and deposition. All of these can affect the coast
• Tides can deposite sediment. Low and high tides can affect erosion. These both affect the beach
• Wind speed, fetch length and the height of waves all effect wave energy
• Resultant winds blow at a 90 degree angle and can cause long shore drift
• Onshore winds are winds which blow towards the land which draws waves towards the coast
• Wave action is the result of frictional drag by winds moving across the wave area
• Both the closeness of area pressure and the earths rotation affect the movement of air.
• Air moves due to the atmospheric condition or temperature. The friction from this plus the earths rotation causes winds.
• Winds are the movement of air from high and low pressure to reach an equilibrium
• Coastal factors affect the coast both spatially and temporarily
• Both hard and soft rock affect the rate of erosion
• Prevailing winds cause long shore drift, which affect the coastline
• When warm ocean currents have the chance of surging, which affect the coastline.
• Beach erosion and beach deposition are caused by waves which can affect the coastline.
• Wave height = 0.36√F
• Steps to do standard diviation:

  • Calculate the mean of the data set.
  • Calculate the difference between each value in the data set and the mean.
  • Square each difference from the previous step, to eliminate negative values.
  • Total the squared differences.
  • Divide this by the number of values, minus one.
  • Calculate the square root
• Sediment cells are divided by physical barriers
• Wave action is generated by fractional drag across the sea
• Fetch is the distance of open water over which a wave has passed
• Deflation is when sand drops from being carried by wind
• To calculate the energy in deep water = P = H^2T
• Tidal range is the difference between high and low tides
• When there is no tidal range it is called a amphidronic point